Unless you have been hiding in a bush since we started Vin Cognito, you will have heard us extolling the virtues of Kumeu River, their deeply contemplative winemaker, Michael Brajkovich MW, and their amazing old-world-meets-new-world Chardonnays, which are bought the world over by fans of white Burgundy, because they impersonate those wines with such aplomb that you’d think they were in the room. This Estate Chardonnay 2023 is a delicious decoy for when you want a world class Chardonnay experience, but you can’t justify the expense of a Meursault or a Chassagne-Montrachet.

It’s a blend of six different sites within the Kumeu River estate, offering mellow intensity, without any excess fat, its youthful dash and cool acidity tying it together into a neat and precise finish. It offers a classic Chardonnay fingerprint of white-fleshed orchard fruits, layered with flaky pastry, toasted oats and a mere whiff of oak-derived smokiness to give it further dimension. It’s drinking well now, but still has a long way to go. 13.5% alc. 20% new oak. Drink now-2032.

Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “The 2023 Estate Chardonnay leads with preserved citrus, white flowers, crushed nuts and brine. In the mouth, the wine is light and lacy - hints of green apple, nectarine and a little tangerine - with taut acidity that vibrates through the ethereally weighted fruit. It's a light iteration of this wine and lovely for it. It was made with handpicked fruit, whole-bunch pressed and barrel fermented using indigenous yeasts. Drink now-2033” 91 points

Jancis Robinson MW: “Distinctly lemon nose and mouth-filling. Good substance on the palate and definition. Great drink for the near term! Quite a step up from the Village. Athletic. I asked about ageability and was assured by Paul Brajkovich that the 2019 is looking very good now. Neat finish. Drink now-2030.” 16.5+ points

The Wine Companion: “Fruit off several sites in the Kumeu region and, as is the norm, whole-bunch pressed and barrel fermented with natural yeast. It’s a gentle, fruit-driven wine – all citrus with white nectarines, a hint of baked apple, yet a fine layer of nutty lees and creaminess renders this soft and supple. A little juicy, very approachable and best in its youth.” 92 points