Cesar Marquez ‘Bierzo Winemaker of the Year 2025’ - Tim Atkin MW 2025

I wish we could get more of this, it’s one of our favourite white wines, a pure Godello made by Raul Perez’s nephew, Cesar Marquez, but unfortunately he only makes a few barrels. It’s a wine with real finesse, a ‘vertical’ wine as sommeliers are wont to say, while showing terrific poise and balance. It pours a pale silver-green colour and peels back various layers as it sits in the glass. Lime, green pear, plenty of flint, white cherry, lemon barley water and whetstone create a dynamic palate, invigorated by little bursts of saline crystals. It’s so green and vital and mouthwatering and moreish, it’s a page-turner in liquid form. Beautiful stuff! 13% alc. The rootstock is over 100 years old. Drink now-2030.

Organically farmed

Press review:

The Wine Advocate (previous vintage): “Quite tight, serious and a little closed. It's riper and rounder than the 2021, with 13.5% alcohol but keeping the freshness and acidity. It's juicy and tender, with a chalky sensation in the finish. This is round and very approachable. 12 months in 500-litre French oak barrels. Drink now-2029.” 94 points

Tim Atkin MW (previous vintage): “This is the very first white that César made back in 2015 from Godello grafted onto 100 year old Mencía vines in Arganza, in the very north of the region. It’s a wonderful expression of Godello, fermented and aged in 500 litre barrels. Subtle green apple and pear are layered over wet stone and a steely backbone. Serious acidity underpins the wine, perfectly balancing the richness on the palate. A wine of precision with a morish saline finish. Drink now-2029” 96 points

John Wilson (Wilson on Wine): “A stunning wine with a great intensity of flavour; fresh and tangy, with orange peel, pears and peaches with a saline note on the lengthy finish. Great value for money.”