Louro Godello, Rafael Palacios, Galicia, Spain 2024
Louro Godello, Rafael Palacios, Galicia, Spain 2024
“An exceptionally refined vintage.” – Jancis Robinson, 17.5 points
It's hard to imagine a more passionate winemaker than Rafael Palacios and that is stated in the full knowledge that passionate winemakers are aren’t exactly thin on the ground. And by passion, I don’t mean the sort of histrionic, arm-waving braggadocio of a ‘Strictly Come Dancing’ judge, I mean genuine devotion and commitment to the land they toil and the grapes they grow. When we visited he didn't just want to show us the vineyards, he didn't just want us to feel the soil in our hands, he wanted us to smell the soil. Cupping the dry earth in his hands like a religious offering, he encouraged us to inhale and “breathe in the terroir”.
He loves this precious plot in Valdeorras and you can see why, it's one of the most spectacular regions in Spain, with terraced vineyards tumbling down to the river Sil below and to enhance the experience we were treated to a glass of this delightful Godello in situ with some grilled octopus cooked on the spot by the local fisherman, Señor Pulpo (Mr Octopus).
It's hard not to be seduced by an experience like that and overrate a wine, but we try to keep our objectivity switched on at all times. In the glass, there are attractive glints of green flickering at the edge, which I always find appetising even before I’ve taken a sip, and I might be highly suggestible, but I picked up flavours of green apple, green fig and lime. It also tastes a little bit like when you scrape the flesh from a green melon and you get too close to the skin, finding that point at which sweet fruit turns to soft bitterness. It’s a real beauty, with a kind of glassy cool, a sense of fluid minerality if that doesn’t sound too pretentious (Pretentious? Moi?). Godello is a quiet grape, it whispers its flavours, with nothing much stronger in its aromatic profile than bayleaf and acacia, so you could call it Galicia’s answer to Chablis, although, in Rafa’s hands, probably a Chablis Premier Cru! It’s a great alternative to the sort of dinner party white wine you would normally place on a white linen tablecloth, and should be enjoyed while it's young and vibrant like a chiselled Chablis or a white Burgundy. Organic/ biodynamic farming. 14% alc. Drink now-2036.
Press review:
Jancis Robinson (Ferran Centelles): “Remarkable precision on the palate, with both opulence and salinity. Delicate mineral notes, fluid and elegant. Subtle hints of quince, chalk, and crystalline purity. An exceptionally refined vintage. It’s astonishing that such beauty can be achieved at a scale of 210,000 bottles. Drink now-2040.” 17.5 points
The Wine Advocate: “The youngest of the portfolio is the 2024 Louro, which has a balsamic, herbal nose (it does smell a little of bay leaf, which is what ‘louro’ means in the Galician language), quite aromatic. It fermented in 3,500-litre oak foudres, where the wine matured with the lees for four months. It doesn't lack ripeness; it comes in at 14% alcohol but retains good freshness and acidity. It's approachable and has a tender texture. Drink now-2029.” 93 points
Vinous: “The 2024 Godello Louro do Bolo from Valdeorras is nuanced, with hay, anise, acacia and a hint of reduction layered over barrel influence. Dry and intense, it balances richness with vibrant acidity, enhancing the variety’s delicacy without losing intensity. Drink now-2035.” 93 points
Customer comments (including previous vintages):
“Last night I tried a bottle of the Louro do Bolo with some halibut – absolutely delicious.” - Mr B.M.
“Just wanted to say that we had one of these tonight and it was absolutely stunning. I had a 2017 As Sortes last year, and this was right up there with it.” - Mr. M.W.
”The Louro Godello was excellent. Greatly enjoyed it.” - Mr. C.A.
“The wine is really delicious .” - Mr. R.S.
“Just to let you know how delicious this wine is. We’re enjoying every sip!” - Mrs B.S.
”Love this wine.” - Mr. D.A.
”We have really enjoyed it” - Mrs S.T.
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The trouble with discovering a predilection for something is that you quickly become picky and that’s what has happened to us with Albariño. First there was the infatuation, when we rushed headlong towards anything that said Albariño on the label, then came the disillusionment, as we discovered that some Albariños were better than others, and finally came the nitpicking, as we refused to settle for ones that were too light or too astringent or too vegetal or too short or who still lived with their parents. It would take a real beauty to turn our heads and that’s what happened here.
The Attis ‘Lias Finas’ 2024 reminds us why we fell in love with Albariño in the first place. It pours a bright, fresh, silver-lemon colour with a hint of green at the edge , and is dry yet full of succulent, juicy fruit, glistening with grapefruit, apricot, white peach, chalk dust and salt flakes. ‘Lias Finas’ means ‘fine lees’ and indicates that the wine was aged on its lees for 6 months (25% of which was in large oak foudres), giving the wine extra body and richness. Swoon. 13% alc. Drink now-2029.
Press review:
Vinous: "The 2024 Albariño Las Finas is from Meano, Val do Salnes, Rias Baixas. This has attractive aromas of peach, lychee, jasmine, herbs and mint. It is dry, medium-bodied and slightly creamy in texture. This gains freshness on the palate, defining a complete profile. The 2024 is a well-made, nuanced Salnes Albariño. Drink 2025 - 2035.” 94 points
Tim Atkin: “Racy, crunchy expression of Val do Salnés Albariño with layers of citrus and macadamia nut and a textured mid palate. Drink now-2028.” 92 points
Jancis Robinson MW (previous vintage): “Really lifted, marine, appetising nose. Savoury, saline finish. Lots to get your teeth into. Drink now-2027.” 16.5 points
Customer Comments:
“I’m m in love. Please may I have a another half case?” - Mrs. V. J.
Cool, classy and sophisticated, but enough about me, let’s talk about the wine. I really like the way this delivers a hatful of fruit in a very controlled, linear, focused way. The Godello ripened perfectly in 2022, thanks to the warm vintage in Bierzo, which allowed Raul Perez to channel all its energy and flavour without the need for the cosmetic effects of new oak, so you have a wine that is concentrated, saline, mineral and age-worthy. A quirky, Atlantic Chablis if you will. You won’t? Fair enough. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2029.
Organically farmed
Press review:
Tim Atkin MW: "Textured and nuanced, La del Vivo is a Godello with serious personality. Delicate chamomile and honey aromas lead to ripe apricot and peach syrup with a little bitter almond and a touch of white pepper. It takes time to open up but then reveals a fantastically chalky palate and just a little woody spice from 12 months in large oak vats. Should continue to develop further over the coming years. Drink now-2028." 95 points
The Wine Advocate: “The white 2022 La Vizcaína La del Vivo comes from vines they own, all fermented without temperature control and never racked. It has a serious and austere nose that makes me think of a cooler year. There is good ripeness, and the wine achieved 13.5% alcohol but has very good freshness and acidity. It has notes of white flowers, fruit, spices and herbs and is complex, nuanced and elegant. It has a chalky palate with very fresh and clean flavors. Drink 2022-2032.” 95 points
JancisRobinson.com (previous vintage): “Freshness and predominantly water pear. Very pleasant and consistent style. Lightness, salinity, and all very well placed. It is a wine of finesse that seeks a more mineral expression of Godello, less opulent, playing with softness and delicacy. Great work. Drink now-2028.” 17 points
Customer comments:
“On first opening it may not smack you in the face, but freshness, zip and zing are apparent straight away and different characteristics emerge with each glass. Salinity? Tick. Minerality? Tick. A citrus streak? Tick. Fine mouthfeel? Tick. The structure to age? Tick.” - Mr T.M.