“An exceptionally refined vintage.” – Jancis Robinson, 17.5 points

It's hard to imagine a more passionate winemaker than Rafael Palacios and that is stated in the full knowledge that passionate winemakers are aren’t exactly thin on the ground. And by passion, I don’t mean the sort of histrionic, arm-waving braggadocio of a ‘Strictly Come Dancing’ judge, I mean genuine devotion and commitment to the land they toil and the grapes they grow. When we visited he didn't just want to show us the vineyards, he didn't just want us to feel the soil in our hands, he wanted us to smell the soil. Cupping the dry earth in his hands like a religious offering, he encouraged us to inhale and “breathe in the terroir”.

He loves this precious plot in Valdeorras and you can see why, it's one of the most spectacular regions in Spain, with terraced vineyards tumbling down to the river Sil below and to enhance the experience we were treated to a glass of this delightful Godello in situ with some grilled octopus cooked on the spot by the local fisherman, Señor Pulpo (Mr Octopus).

It's hard not to be seduced by an experience like that and overrate a wine, but we try to keep our objectivity switched on at all times. In the glass, there are attractive glints of green flickering at the edge, which I always find appetising even before I’ve taken a sip, and I might be highly suggestible, but I picked up flavours of green apple, green fig and lime. It also tastes a little bit like when you scrape the flesh from a green melon and you get too close to the skin, finding that point at which sweet fruit turns to soft bitterness. It’s a real beauty, with a kind of glassy cool, a sense of fluid minerality if that doesn’t sound too pretentious (Pretentious? Moi?). Godello is a quiet grape, it whispers its flavours, with nothing much stronger in its aromatic profile than bayleaf and acacia, so you could call it Galicia’s answer to Chablis, although, in Rafa’s hands, probably a Chablis Premier Cru! It’s a great alternative to the sort of dinner party white wine you would normally place on a white linen tablecloth, and should be enjoyed while it's young and vibrant like a chiselled Chablis or a white Burgundy. Organic/ biodynamic farming. 14% alc. Drink now-2036.


Press review:

Jancis Robinson (Ferran Centelles): “Remarkable precision on the palate, with both opulence and salinity. Delicate mineral notes, fluid and elegant. Subtle hints of quince, chalk, and crystalline purity. An exceptionally refined vintage. It’s astonishing that such beauty can be achieved at a scale of 210,000 bottles. Drink now-2040.” 17.5 points

The Wine Advocate: “The youngest of the portfolio is the 2024 Louro, which has a balsamic, herbal nose (it does smell a little of bay leaf, which is what ‘louro’ means in the Galician language), quite aromatic. It fermented in 3,500-litre oak foudres, where the wine matured with the lees for four months. It doesn't lack ripeness; it comes in at 14% alcohol but retains good freshness and acidity. It's approachable and has a tender texture. Drink now-2029.” 93 points

Vinous: “The 2024 Godello Louro do Bolo from Valdeorras is nuanced, with hay, anise, acacia and a hint of reduction layered over barrel influence. Dry and intense, it balances richness with vibrant acidity, enhancing the variety’s delicacy without losing intensity. Drink now-2035.” 93 points

Customer comments (including previous vintages):

“Last night I tried a bottle of the Louro do Bolo with some halibut – absolutely delicious.” - Mr B.M.

“Just wanted to say that we had one of these tonight and it was absolutely stunning. I had a 2017 As Sortes last year, and this was right up there with it.” - Mr. M.W.

”The Louro Godello was excellent. Greatly enjoyed it.” - Mr. C.A.

“The wine is really delicious .” - Mr. R.S.

“Just to let you know how delicious this wine is. We’re enjoying every sip!” - Mrs B.S.

”Love this wine.” - Mr. D.A.

”We have really enjoyed it” - Mrs S.T.