Menetou-Salon, for those who don’t know, is an appellation just down the road from Sancerre, where the same grape variety (Sauvignon Blanc) grows on the same soil (limestone) under the same sun. I have very fond memories of driving through France with my parents, and my dad would always stop at his favourite caviste and buy a couple of cases of Menetou-Salon, eschewing all the Sancerres on offer, in the hope that the shopkeeper would hold him in higher esteem than he did all the other Brits who would stock up on “good ordinary claret”, “a jolly reliable Macon” and “a flinty Sancerre”.

Domaines des Brosses do make a Sancerre, which goes for about £30.00 a bottle, but we much preferred this, their less expensive Menetou-Salon, which is crystal clear, zippy and mineral, fleshed out by greengage, lime and white melon and that signature nettle note that we always hope to find in a good Sancerre. I think my dad would approve. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2029.