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Lowboi Porongurup Chardonnay, Western Australia 2018
Lowboi Porongurup Chardonnay, Western Australia 2018
“Flinty, fine, cool-climate Chardonnay.” - The Australian Wine Companion, 96 points
We love a side project, because it’s often the genus of something bright and beautiful, like a sun spot, breaking away from its star. Lowboi is the side project of Guy Lyons, the winemaker at Forrest Hill, and if this is the shape of things to come, then it’s time to shiver with antici… pation. It’s a sensational debut. Tender white-fleshed fruits cut with a dash of lime define the nose, but it’s the palate that really sets the pulse racing with apricot and grapefruit preserve, orange peel and millefeuille pastry. This is serious modern Australian Chardonnay, finely tailored, understated in terms of oak, impressively energetic in terms of fruit and utterly delicious. We tasted it alongside hundreds of Australian Chardonnays and it was on a par with Tolpuddle from Tasmania and Shaw and Smith’s Lenswood Vineyard Chardonnay in terms of sheer panache and downright deliciousness. It’s not cheap, but quality comes from hard graft and you can taste the determination to make something outstanding. Bravo! 13% alc. Drink now-2028.
The Australian Wine Companion: “Fruit from the Springviews vineyard, on the southern side of the range, planted in 1985. Hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed, full solids to barrel (15%), wild ferment, partial malo-lactic fermentation. There is something very special about the Springviews vineyard site, and this wine. Flinty, fine, cool-climate Chardonnay here, with layers of curry leaf, brine, citrus pith, white peach, nectarine, cap gun and fennel flower. The phenolics have a jasmine tea character to them, and cradle the fruit in the cups of their hands, all the way across the palate and into a long finish.” 96 points (Gold Medal)
Roger Jones (The Buyer): “This is bright and funky, full of life and excitement, made by Guy Lyons the winemaker at Forrest Hill. New forward-thinking Chardonnay that delivers, it’s exciting with racy flavours.”
Decanter: “A real discovery at January’s annual Australia Trade Tasting in London. From the Porongurup sub-region of Great Southern, this is wild-yeast fermented in barrel and aged for 12 months in 10% new oak, revealing aromas and flavours of ripe yellow peach and crushed herbs on a soft, caressing palate backed by bright acidity. Understated and delicious. Drink 2020-2025.” 92 points
The Wine Advocate (other vintage): “Gently reductive, spicy and leads with notes of crushed pistachio and cashew, curry leaf and yellow peach. This has a structural minerality that tightens the screws on the perception of acidity and freshness, and the fruit feels both delicate and floral. This is exceptional. Winemaker Guy Lyons is on a roll currently; the wines have never been better. There are notes of dried herbs—rosemary and a hint oregano—with sweet tobacco and caper brine. This is quite epic. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.” 96 points
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“A truly heavenly Chardonnay.” - The Australian Wine Companion, 97 points
“So good. Again!” - The Wine Advocate, 96 points
The Rocket Chardonnay has burst onto the scene (ha! ha! like a rocket, geddit?! brilliant!) since its launch (ha! ha! like a rocket, geddit?! brilliant!) in 2017. It has already become a cult wine without even trying (actually... trying to become a cult wine instantly disqualifies you from becoming one). The aromas lift off (ha! ha! like a rocket, geddit! brilliant!), displaying all manner of ineffable loveliness, best described as a continental breakfast trolley tumbling down the side of a volcano, so there’s lime marmalade, toast, warm viennoiserie, pumice stone, struck match, flint and half a grapefruit. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2032.
Press reviews:
The Australian Wine Companion: “The back label confides 'Made on earth by humans.' It is a truly heavenly Chardonnay, with impeccable balance and mouthfeel, attributes it will retain as it matures in bottle. The fruit has the whip hand, not the oak.“ 97 points
The Wine Advocate: "The 2022 Limited Release The Rocket Chardonnay is a more open-weave, raw, powerful rendition of Chardonnay than the sleek Tilbury, tasted alongside. This has crushed curry leaf in profusion, sugared pink grapefruit, apple pie, layers of preserved lemon and even a hint of loquat. There is an all-consuming galaxy of flavour and texture here. Some roasted almonds and crushed shells close the palate. So good. Again! Drink now-2035." 96 points
Decanter (previous vintage): “It’s lean, sprightly and immediately delicious. The racy front palate has fresh lemon zing and a smart savoury drawstring around the waist. Complexity unfurls as flavours gently roll without ever intruding on the lightness and bounce of the palate. It’s cleverly understated, yet highly sophisticated; a lively dancer that’s great fun to be with.” 98 points

