I would suggest that the difference between this wine (newly titled “Klein Hemel”) and their more expensive, single-vineyard ‘Ava Marie’ Chardonnay, has more to do with style than quality. They are both equally fabulous examples of cool climate New World Chardonnay and this just has a bit more of the jangling, in-your-face minerality compared to the ‘Ava Marie’, which feels broader, deeper and more grandiose. This is the upright piano for playing honkytonk, whereas the ‘Ava Marie’ is the grand piano for playing Chopin.

On the nose there is a flash of matchstick reduction, as well as nutty fun from the barrel fermentation, while delicate flavours of white peach, lemon balm and grapefruit flesh out the core. The palate is bright and polished with the house’s signature vibrant acidity pulling through to give a Chardonnay with chiselled European incisiveness even if its roots are South African. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2032.

Press reviews:

Tim Atkin MW: “Vineyard Selection is the entry-point Chardonnay from Craig and Ann Wessels, sourced from younger vineyards planted with the 95, 96 and 271 clones. Fermented with 40% malolactic in 10% new oak, it's steely, stony and saline, with a granitic core, a waft of toast and a chiselled, lemon and lime juice finish. Drink now-2030.” 94 points

Vinous: “The 2024 Klein Hemel Chardonnay, which was previously called "estate", comes from fruit grown on the estate, matured for 12 months in barrel with a small proportion in stainless steel. This has a clean and precise bouquet, very focused, just a little flintiness in the background. The palate is fresh and crisp on the entry with orange rind and citrus fruit, segueing into a slightly more malic, Chablis-like finish. This is a classy Chardonnay that is full of energy and salinity. Excellent. Drink now-2038’“ 92 points