If you can't afford a bottle of Meursault, you might scan the shelves of your local wine shop for a Chardonnay from New Zealand, perhaps, or maybe Oregon. I doubt that you would pause to consider a Silvaner from the banks of the River Rhein, but that's precisely why we exist, to steer you off course and pick something surprising and this wine, from future superstar winemaker, Carsten Saalwächter, is just the sort of tale of the unexpected that we enjoy telling. Its aromas immediately lead you to the Cote d'Or, with their hint of reduction (i.e. struck match), a lot of flint and a basket full of citrus fruits and warm patisserie notes from the time spent in barriques. We tasted through the Meursaults from Domaine Roulot recently and didn't think any of them were as complex or delicious as this. 12% alc. Drink now-2029.

Press review:

The Wine Advocate (previous vintage): “Aged in large oak vats from 800 to 1,500 litres for 12 months, Saalwächter's 2022 Silvaner Alte Reben opens like the Chardonnay with ripe, intense and juicy fruit intermingled with flinty reduction notes as well as herbal aromas. Medium-bodied, fresh and elegant on the palate, this is a frisky, saline and savory Sylvaner with delicate juiciness and stimulating finesse and transparency. Drink now-2040.” 92 points