Wonderfully taut and recognisably Semillon in its grassy background aromas, as if a neighbour had recently mowed their lawn, but very focused and driven by acidity and chipped-flint minerality. So sleek and satin-textured and loosely reminiscent of a white Graves, but no more than a nod in that direction, as it has more weight and volume, but without ever feeling heavy. A showstopper to bring to the table as you serve the turbot. A blend of Semillon Blanc and the pink-hued Semillon Gris from vines dating back to the first half of the 19th century. 14% alc. Drink now-2036.

Press review:

Tim Atkin MW: “Kokerboom combines Semillon with 30% of its mutation Semillon Gris, all within the same vineyard on Citrusdal Mountain. More restrained and focused than it can be, the 2024 release has flavours of clementine, citrus and a hint of peach, a waxy undertone, a top note of fennel and a refreshing finish. Drink 2027-2031.” 95 points