Is this the ultimate expression of South African white wine? I suggest this, based on deductive reasoning, because it comes from the ‘fountainhead’. It was produced by the greatest winemaker in the country, Eben Sadie, from the nation’s ‘hero’ white grape, Chenin Blanc, and it comes from the most celebrated sub-region, the Paardeberg, of the most renowned region for the variety, the Swartland.

The 2025 Rotsbank has a little less ‘struck match’ reduction than in previous years, but it is still there, lurking in the shadows. It’s quite understated and tucked in, linear rather than broad, with focused notes of melon, yellow citrus, walnut and salt. A very long life awaits. A wine for people addicted to white Burgundy, but who want to venture elsewhere. 14% alc. Drink now-2042.

Press review:

Tim Atkin MW: “Despite being based there, it’s only recently that Eben Sadie has produced a Chenin Blanc from the Paardeberg, thanks to the acquisition of a nearby parcel planted in 1974. The result is Rotsbank. Showing aromas of flint, iodine and struck match, it’s a wine that builds slowly to a crescendo on the palate, with the tang of decomposed granite, lime and pink grapefruit flavours and an umami top note. Drink 2028-2040.” 98 points