Duncan Savage’s ‘Salt River’ takes a serious look at Sauvignon Blanc, seen through a South Atlantic Ocean lens. It’s not a ‘varietal’ wine in the sense that it doesn’t turn up the dial on the Sauvignon Blanc aromas, as you might find in a Marlborough expression, but pares them right back, so that the wine is taut, pithy and dry. Sancerre doesn’t mention Sauvignon Blanc on the front label and there’s an argument for this wine doing the same, because it communicates a lot more about the terroir than the grape variety, displaying a distinct saline quality, as well as grapefruit peel, preserved lemon and marine breeze. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2030.