Duncan Savage’s ‘Salt River’ takes a serious look at Sauvignon Blanc, seen through the lens of the South Atlantic Ocean. It’s not a ‘varietal’ wine in the sense that it doesn’t turn up the dial on Sauvignon Blanc’s trademark aromas, as you might expect to find in a Marlborough expression, but pares them right down, so that the wine is taut, pithy and dry.

Sancerre doesn’t mention Sauvignon Blanc on the front label and there’s an argument for this wine doing the same, because it communicates a lot more about the terroir than the grape variety, displaying a distinct saline quality, a bit of rubble dust, as well as grapefruit peel, preserved lemon and marine breeze. A serious alternative to Sancerre or Pouilly-Fuissé.13.5% alc. Drink now-2030.