This is very hard to get hold of, in fact it’s almost impossible for a retail merchant to list, because it normally disappears into the cellars of Michelin-starred restaurants, but when we got wind that a sommelier in London had failed to confirm their order, we swooped! Romain Guiberteau is one of actually quite a few cult figures in the Loire (e.g. Foucault, Dagueneau, Boudignon, Leroy) and his wines have that wonderfully confident acidity that would cause many a producer elsewhere to panic, but he knows that great Loire wines come from perfect tension and balance and that’s exactly what you find here. A thrilling young Chenin Blanc packed with citrus and quince, which you can drink now, but it will unfurl and become richer over the next 4 or 5 years. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2029.

JancisRobinson.com: “A blend from vineyards in Montreuil-Bellay and Brézé. Sandy-silty clay over tuffeau. Aged 6 months in tank, barrel and foudre. Certified organic. Lively and bright, with floral and quince notes. Crystalline with lots of acidity and tension. Lighter weight. Finishes with a saline note. Good as an aperitif or with shellfish. Drink now-2027.” 16 points

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