If gold leaf had an aroma, this might be it, but seeing as it doesn’t, we picked out lime and apricot, petrichor, chalk dust, whetstone, grapefruit and warm hay. The palate is full of tension and youthful sass, only hinting at the complexities waiting off-stage. This is one of the most arresting and ageworthy expressions of Chenin Blanc we have ever tasted and it will drink beautifully for at least two decades. Fans of Chris Alheit’s ‘single vineyard’ Chenin Blancs or Richard Leroy’s declassified Anjou whites will find themselves in their happy place with a glass of this in their hand.

‘La Vigne Cendrée’ is Thibauld Boudignon’s smallest parcel (0.5 hectares) situated on purple schist, granite and clay soil in Savennieres. 12% alc. Organic. Biodynamic. Drink now-2040.

Press review:

The WIne Advocate (previous vintage): “The 2021 Savennières La Vigne Cendrée, the sole parcel from Thibaud Boudignon that is located in the Savennières village, near the Roche aux Moines, offers up an austere, complex bouquet with aromas of yuzu, lemon oil, spring flowers and spices. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and complete, resonant and vibrant, it’s perfectly balanced with a long, penetrating and ethereal finish enhanced by a racy bitterness. This wine, matured only in stainless steel tanks, should see its 20th anniversary in fine form.” 96 points