I’m told that there are only 10 hectares of Savagnin in the whole of Germany and Seckinger have two of them, so this is a bit of a curiosity, but that’s not why we bought it. It’s a fabulously complex, light-bodied white, with the refreshment quality of a lemon ice lolly, a dusting of crumbled stone, a little wink to unfiltered natural wines (it’s slightly cloudy), a nod to flinty Chablis and a curtsey to the Jura (some of the barrels develop a ‘voile’). It leans into its minerality, more so than the lime and lemon fruit, but it balances everything beautifully. A really delicious, multifaceted wine, despite its light frame. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2030.