The plastic surgeons in Hermanus have been working overtime recently, because this wine has put so many noses out of joint. It is only the second vintage produced by this exciting new domaine, but it has already joined the conversation about the best Chardonnays in South Africa and is mingling like an impudent upstart with the likes of Hamilton-Russell, Restless River, Lismore and Richard Kershaw.

It comes from the highest vineyard in the Hemel-en-Aarde, where sea breezes and the northern aspect, contribute to the wine’s cool, chiselled character. It’s quite taut and mineral, a wine you could possibly mistake for a European Chardonnay, with its fine line of acidity and mineral crunch. Flavours and aromas of grapefruit, lemon peel, chalk dust and rockpool are mollified by succulent nectarine and a hint of toasted nuts from the new oak. When it becomes a benchmark for Cape Chardonnays in a few years’ time, please remember where you heard about it first! 13.5% alc. Drink now-2030.

NB, the winemaker, P.J. Geyer previously worked in Bordeaux for Maison Jean-Pierre Moeuix, who make a wine called ‘Petrus’, which you may or may not have heard of.

Press reviews:

Tim Atkin MW: “The Thamnus Chardonnay was one of the discoveries of my 2023 report, so I'm delighted that it's every bit as good this year. Sourced from a single vineyard on Shaw's Mountain, it's light on its feet yet very well structured, with stylish 38% new wood, effortless minerality and a medley of citrus, pear, vanilla and clementine. Drink now-2029.” 95 points

Greg Sherwood MW: “Aged in a mix of old and new French oak with fruit from a warmer year. The 2022 is more reserved and mineral, classical and restrained, showing hints of spicy lemon, white pepper, pithy lime peel and yellow grapefruit. Incredibly sleek and refined, mineral laden, pure and compact. Currently showing lovely youthful wound spring tension but also great cellaring potential.” 95 points