We’ve been looking for a wine like this for a long time, a northern Italian red with seriously sexy fruit and by ‘sexy’, we mean hedonistic, opulent and seductive and by ‘seriously’ we mean structured, rich and true to the region. It’s the ying-yang combination of those two features, which make this wine so utterly beguiling, the ‘sexy’ high-toned, sweet-plum and hibiscus flavours underpinned by a skein of ripe, yet ‘serious’ tannins and Barbera’s whiplash natural acidity to give the wine structural integrity, otherwise it would collapse under the weight of its own beauty. If you want your guests to finish every sip with “Oh wow!” then this wine belongs on your dinner table. 14.5% alc. Drink now-2030.

PS I’m having another glass of this now, later the same night, and it’s really quite fabulous. There are Barolo and Barbaresco flavours swirling around here, but immersed in the richness that comes with Barbera, so there’s none of the astringency associated with Nebbiolo, just luscious black cherry acidity piercing through kola, orange and cinnamon.

Organic (non-certified)