Pascual Toso 'Selected Vines' Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina 2018

Pascual Toso Malbec Selected Vines.jpg
Pascual Toso Malbec Selected Vines.jpg

Pascual Toso 'Selected Vines' Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina 2018

£12.95

This is how you do a Mendoza Malbec! We’ve tasted far too many over-oaked examples, including previous vintages of this very wine, where it feels like the whole spice cupboard has fallen into the vat. Oak should be subtle and complementary and perform the same function as a bridal veil, allowing a tantalising glimpse of the beauty that lies beneath. It is for this reason that brides don’t wear balaclavas. This glorious Malbec has the balance spot-on, with the perfectly-judged oak allowing the wine’s purity to radiate. Sumptuous, inky black fruits emerge initially, followed by delicate notes of wisteria, kola and chocolate shavings, which all shine though the fine layer of cedar and vanilla from the 12 months of ageing in new French and American barrels. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2025.

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Can Descregut 'Vinil', Penedes, Spain 2019
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A blend of Sumoll and Merlot, in which the Merlot provides the plump, plummy fruit while the Sumoll brings the gloss and acidity and hints of tamarind and smoky bacon. It’s inky in colour and fairly full-bodied, yet fresh and lively, dusted with sweet spices and a real sense of place. I’d even go so far as to say that it has a sense of grandeur, in that its flavours echo cross the palate. 13% alc. Drink now-2026. NB I took this to a BYOB restaurant and didn’t finish the bottle. I came back 3 weeks later and the waiter came over and said he had kept the wine in case I wanted to finish it. I didn’t want to dismiss his thoughtful gesture, so I gave it a try, expecting it to be vinegar, and it was still in great shape! I happily polished off the rest of the bottle.

Organic (certified)

Malbec 'La Viminière', Chateau Fleur Haut Gaussens Bordeaux Supérieur, France 2016
£21.95

“This is a hedonistic and decadent Bordeaux Malbec that could challenge a few Mendoza wines in terms of density” - The Wine Advocate


I love Malbec! Or at least I think I do. I’ve definitely liked the ones I’ve liked and I have paid more attention to those than the ones I haven’t liked, which I tend to forget about. Fans of ‘confirmation bias’ will be keenly aware of the tendency here. We ratify our beliefs by noticing the occurrences where those beliefs are upheld, while paying less attention to the times when they aren’t. So, now that I think about it, I’m not sure that I do like Malbec, because the supporting data isn’t great. I do fondly remember a bottle shared with friends of the Achaval-Ferrer Malbec 2014, but I’ve worked my way through every Malbec at my local Argentine steakhouse and they’ve all been pretty lousy. So, is Malbec the Radiohead of wines? You think you like Radiohead, you want to be a groovy Radiohead-liker, you even learned the chords to Fake Plastic Trees, but then you play a whole album and you realise, oh no, you don’t really like Radiohead.

The fact remains, however, that I still want to like Radiohead and I still want to like Malbec. So, imagine my delight when I poured this inky Malbec into my glass and it tasted like I was hearing Karma Police for the first time. There was none of the discordant brashness of a young Malbec, as this is from the exceptional 2016 vintage in Bordeaux ("the best Bordeaux vintage I will probably ever taste" - Jancis Robinson MW; “an incredible vintage” - The Wine Advocate), so it has had 10 years to mellow and integrate, becoming something compellingly serious now. If you enjoy a full-bodied red with sleek, blackcurranty acidity to give it lustre and sheen, then this belongs in your wine rack.

It’s bursting with opulent cassis and sweet black cherries, combining the sort of heady ripeness you might find in an Argentine Malbec, with the sleek, cool, upright quality that you can expect from Bordeaux. It is sourced from a tiny plot that barely covers 2 hectares and was aged for 5 months in new French and American oak barrels. Drink now-2028

Press reviews:

The Wine Advocate: “The 2016 La Viminière from Fleur Haut Gaussens is a pure Malbec. Opulent and generous on the nose, bilberry jam and blueberry scents storm from the glass as if their life depended upon it. The palate is medium-bodied with a core of sweet black plum laced with blueberry and honey, the acidity keeping everything balanced. This is a hedonistic and decadent Bordeaux Malbec that could challenge a few Mendoza wines in terms of density. Give this a year in bottle and you will have a fine, powerful Malbec. Drink now-2023.”

Jancis Robinson MW (previous vintage) “It could easily be mistaken for an Argentine. But it does smell like Bordeaux, even if the colour is almost Mendoza! Very rich and flattering. Velvety texture and perfect for those who like to be enveloped by their wine. Probably not a long-distance runner but massively delivers pleasure.”

Customer Comments:

“Loved it!” - Mr. D.A.

“The Malbec is terrific.” - Mr S.T.

Case of Gran Enemigo 'Gualtallary' Single Vineyard, Bodega Aleanna, Tupungato, Argentina 2019 (6 x 75cl) all inc.
£606.00

The Wine Advocate: “The incredibly subtle, elegant and austere 2019 Gran Enemigo Gualtallary Single Vineyard reminds me of a great vintage of Lafleur, my favourite Bordeaux, as this is one of the finest vintages for this single-vineyard blend of Cabernet Franc with some 15% Malbec. It develops very slowly in the glass and shows layers and layers of aromas but all in a very subtle way. It also reminds me of the fabulous 2013 that I rated 100 points in 2018, and there has not been such a perfect vintage since then. It has great balance and a silky mouthfeel, with refined, elegant tannins and a long, dry finish with a chalky and salty sensation and no room for sweetness; it's more about herbs, flowers and rocks than anything else. Drink now-2035.” 100 points

James Suckling: “A complex, restrained and deliciously austere cabernet franc with damp earth, oyster shells, blueberries, thyme, rosemary and mushrooms. Super serious and chalky on the palate with lots of dissolved, minerally-textured tannins. Very long and uncompromising! An incredible Cabernet Franc from Gualtallary by Alejandro Vigil. Extremely pure, mineral and seductive. A fabulous Cabernet Franc that grows on the palate with remarkable tension and texture. I’d want to drink a bottle now even it can hold extremely well.” 100 points

For deliveries in London, the wine will be delivered in its original wooden case. For deliveries outside London, it will be repacked into mail-safe boxes.


Customer review:

“Big fan – it’s stunning.” - Mr T.P.