White Wine
“The La Combe Verte punches well above its price.” - Vinous
The Walter Scott ‘La Combe Verte’ Chardonnay 2022 is a stunning wine by any measure - well, not any measure, I mean a tape-measure would be useless, as would a speedometer, but can we move along please, I have a lot to say and I don’t have time for any more of your petty interruptions. All of the wines that it pays homage to with its flinty, matchstick aromas and its insanely complex palate (Coche-Dury, Le Moine, Colin-Morey, Leflaive, Arnaud Ente), are no longer affordable to mere mortals like us, so this is exactly the sort of discovery that you demand of us and rightly so! There may come a time when the name, Walter Scott, will appear between those brackets too, but for now it is an estate that has only just set foot on the travellator and begun gliding serenely past its peers. The Wine Advocate’s reviews for the new Walter Scott releases have just been published and all 15 wines sit within a bracket of 93 to 99 points, a notable rise on previous years, so it’s not just our view that this is a domaine going places fast.
The ‘La Combe Verte’ 2022 is a truly world-class Chardonnay, which you can confidently take to a dinner party in the safe knowledge that it will be the wine of the night, no matter what your friends bring along. And if it isn’t, then may we politely suggest that you don’t change your wine merchant, you change your friends!
I know that £39.50 is a bit of reach for a lot of people at the moment, but if you are going to splash out on the word of a wine merchant, I want to make sure you get what you pay for and I think this could sit in the company of any fine white Burgundy or new world Chardonnay at twice the price.
Organically farmed/ biodynamically farmed
Press review:
The Wine Advocate: “Fruit for the 2022 Chardonnay La Combe Verte comes from five premier vineyards in the Willamette Valley planted on both volcanic and marine sedimentary soils: Freedom Hill, Hyland, Koosah, Sojeau and Witness Tree. It was blended with 2% Aligoté and matured for eight months in 25% new French oak before finishing with two months in stainless steel. It offers integrated tones of matchstick and flint that complement a core of quince paste, peach preserves, meringue, beeswax and cashews. The light-bodied palate is seamless and shimmery, pairing concentrated, honeyed fruit with linear acidity that results in a weightless feel and an ethereal finish. Drink now-2035.“ 93 points
Decanter: “La Combe Verte Chardonnay offers a laser-focused minerality, smoky flint, grilled pineapple, and ocean breeze salinity. The palate is a melange of tangy citrus and concentrated fruits—flavours of grilled lemon peel, petrichor, zingy lime pith, and passionfruit. Drink now-2031.” 94 points
Vinous: “A burst of savoury reduction slowly blows off the 2022 Chardonnay La Combe Verte to reveal a deeply seductive blend of wildflowers and sage, giving way to nectarines and candied ginger. This is surprisingly weighty in feel, communicating a level of prominence balanced by a core of juicy acidity. Flinty minerality adds depth to its core of ripe pears and green melon. The 2022 leaves a pretty inner sweetness while cleaning up remarkably well with traces of candied lime that linger. The La Combe Verte punches well above its price. Drink now-2027.” 92 points
Customer comments:
“Very stylish and restrained!” - Mr A.W.
Red Wine
I know, right? A Californian Pinot Noir for £12.95? It’s gotta be awful! Ha, ha! What kind of chump would buy Californian Pinot Noir for that sort of price? It’s probably made from grapes they picked off the ground! Ha ha! It’s probably got more sugar in it than a pot of jam! Ha ha! It’s probably made from formaldehyde and glue. Ha, ha! They must think I was born yesterday. I bet it doesn’t taste anything like Pinot Noir, I bet it’s jammy and sweet. I bet it turns to vinegar within a day of opening it. Ha, ha! These charlatans aren’t going to pull one over on me! 13.5% alc. Vegan. Drink now-2030.
Customer Comments (previous vintage):
“It’s brilliant. I would say very Gevrey like.” - Mr. B. W.
“It’s as nice as some US or NZ I drink, but at half the price, so a great ‘cellar saver’!” - Mr. C. S.
“Just to let you know we are currently having a tasting of Odd Lot. You are right. Excellent value.” - Mrs. J. T.
“Delicious wine!” - Mr. A.P.
“The Odd Job Pinot is very nice.” - Mr L.B.
“How are you stocked for Odd Lot, any left? It went down a real storm.” - Mr D.C.
“It really is good. It’s not spectacular, but it’s undeniably a really good wine” - Mr N.S.
”It is everything you guys said it was. Astonishing for the price…” - Mr. W.G.
”Am much enjoying the Pinot ! Hope you haven't sold out, as I'll take another dozen, if available!” - Mr. J.P.
“We are enjoying the Odd Lot Pinot Noir an awful lot!! Do you have any left?” - Mr D.M.
”Just wanted to let you know that the Odd lot pinot is absolutely incredible for the price.” - Mr. I.S.
“The Odd Lot Pinot has lived up to everything you said about it” - Mr. A.W.
“Just to let you know that the Odd Lot Pinot Noir lived up to its promise. Such a bargain!” - Mr C.C.
Maybe not the most sophisticated Pinot Noir you will ever try, but if you need a really decent picnic or barbecue wine that will go with everything from grilled halloumi to fiery tiger prawns, then allow us to introduce this mellow, creamy Californian number. It’s a mouthful of delicious sunny strawberries and cherry yoghurt, a dollop of vanilla cream, counterpointed by a squeeze of orange juice acidity, and now that I have set the bar so low that you can’t go under it, you will have to go over it and enjoy its juicy charms. 13% alc. Drink now-2029.
“Giornata did a fantastic job with the 2022 Sangiovese.” - Vinous, 94 points
If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, then Biondi-Santi should be blushing, because this wine does an amazing impersonation of their Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, especially as it’s not even from Italy. It’s a pure Sangiovese from Paso Robles, roughly halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, an area where Italian grape varieties are being planted with increasingly exciting results and this wine stood out from those we have tasted. It’s utterly delicious.
It has real depth of flavour, but the high tones are where the fun begins, with beautifully perfumed Italianate aromas - a heady mix of cherries, blood orange, fresh bark, tangerine peel, warm terracotta and a hint of sarsaparilla root to give it a local twist. Bring out your best glasses and a decanter if you have one. Close your eyes and breathe in. It will remind you of a hedonistic Brunello before you have even put the glass to your lips. The palate is rich with sweetly ripe tannins, yet driven along by the most perfectly balanced acidity, once again, reminiscent of those wonderful Tuscan reds that go so well with the local cuisine. I have a glass next to me as I’m writing this and I keep going back to it, as it develops in the glass, and I really can’t believe it’s from California! 14% alc. Aged for 12 months in Italian botte (huge wooden casks made of Slavonian chestnut), then a further 10 months in neutral oak. Drink now-2040.
Press reviews:
Vinous: “The 2022 Sangiovese is intense, showing a balsamic tinge up front that gives way to crushed cherries and cedar tones. Silky smooth, it offers masses of ripe red berry fruit and depths of minerals and spice. Slightly chewy, yet exceptionally long, the finish delivers a tart cranberry twang. Despite being a darker and more concentrated effort, Giornata did a fantastic job with the 2022 Sangiovese. Drink now-2030.” 94 points
The Wine Advocate: “The 2022 Sangiovese weaves woody, resinous, earthy aromas around a pure, vibrant core of ripe red fruits that increases in volume after even a short while in the glass. The palate is equally deep, rich and tensile, leading into a lively, soaring finish that lingers with taut, dusty tannins and enough fruit padding to avoid a semblance of harshness. Another year or two in the bottle would do this well, and it should drink quite well through its 10th birthday. Drink now-2033.” 94 points
JancisRobinson.com (previous vintage): “Smells of cherries, herbs and incense. Wonderfully juicy and bright flavours of cherry, citrus peel and dried herbs are wrapped in a fleecy blanket of tannins that turns quickly muscular as the tannins stiffen and notes of fresh chopped herbs linger with citrus peel in the finish. Excellent acidity. Give this a couple of years before opening and you’ll be rewarded.” 17 points
“Twenty years into its existence, Rhys has more than solidified its place at the apex of Pinot Noir production in California. This project's vision, scope and attention to detail are palpable across every aspect of its planning and execution and, most of all, in the finished wines. Through a combination of immaculately farmed, high-density vineyards and obsessive exactitude in the cellar, Rhys creates wines of structure, tenacity and length unparalleled in California. These wines will not be out of place on a table next to intimidating lineups from top Burgundian producers.” - The Wine Advocate
There are several ways of hitting the dance floor. You can walk on and only start strutting your stuff once you reach the middle, you can start throwing shapes from the moment you leave the bar or you can gradually wind it up as you weave through the crowd. What on earth has that got to do with this wine? Fair point. Well, it’s quite a useful metaphor for describing how wineries appear on the scene and Rhys Vineyards didn’t suddenly burst onto the scene, they started dancing way, way back. They’ve been nurturing their vineyards for the last 20 years, gradually increasing the planting density, slowly working the soil until the vines had reached the right age to produce wonderful fruit and now is the time to clear a circle and watch them dance.
Their Alesia 2019 is a beautiful, ethereal Pinot Noir with high-toned, beguiling aromas that float from the surface, seducing with cherry, candied orange peel, pudding spices, raspberry jelly, cedar and cola foam. It’s a hedonistic, delicious wine for drinking now and over the next 8-10 years. 13% alc. Drink now-2032.
Press reviews:
The Wine Advocate: “The 2019 Alesia Pinot Noir Santa Cruz Mountains is a beaming, focused demonstration of Rhys's winemaking style. Aromas of Bing cherry, petrichor and rose petals eagerly waft from the glass. The palate is textural and focused, with an intense, high-toned structure and a long, layered finish. It provides a wonderful platform on which to glimpse the Rhys style without the cellaring necessary for the single-vineyard releases. Drink now-2030.” 93 points
Decanter: “Graceful and inviting aromas of forest fruits, cola and juicy cherry on the nose with dark chocolate, sweet spices. Silky and delicious with wonderful savoury complexity on the finish. Drink now-2028.” 90 points
“Rhys founder Kevin Harvey makes world-class, age-worthy wines that sit confidently next to the iconic bottles that inspired them.” - The Wine Advocate
Such a beautiful pale colour, like a ghost with a touch of rouge on its cheek. I don’t think I have ever known a wine as pale as this to have so much aroma and flavour, it’s truly astonishing. Rosehip and peony kick things off, followed by orange rind, raspberry tea and incense. It’s as ethereal and delicate as a Chambolle-Musigny and has a struck flint, mineral character that only adds to the impression that this is a Cotes de Nuits red, but it ain’t, it comes from vineyards about 3 hours north of Los Angeles. Amazing! 12.5% alc. Only 11 barrels made. 15% whole clusters and matured in 15% new oak. Drink now-2030.
It is early 2024 and General AI is still in its infancy, but I was curious to see what kind of tasting note ChatGPT would come up with if I asked it to write one, so here it is:
“Chanin Los Alamos Pinot Noir 2021 is an excellent wine that is sure to impress even the most discerning wine connoisseur. On the nose, this Pinot Noir exhibits alluring aromas of ripe cherries, blackberries, and plums, along with subtle hints of vanilla and spice. The aroma is further enriched by a subtle earthiness and a hint of smoke.
On the palate, the wine is silky and elegant, with a medium body and a lively acidity that provides a refreshing lift. The flavours of black cherry, raspberry, and plum are beautifully balanced with a touch of oak and a hint of clove, resulting in a wine that is complex and well-rounded. The tannins are supple and velvety, adding a touch of structure to the wine and ensuring a long, smooth finish.
Overall, Chanin Los Alamos Pinot Noir 2021 is an outstanding example of California Pinot Noir, showcasing the best of the region's terroir and winemaking techniques. It is a wine that can be enjoyed now, but also has the potential to age gracefully for several years, allowing the complex flavours to develop and mature over time. Highly recommended for anyone looking for a truly exceptional Pinot Noir.”
Hmmmm. Perhaps there will be a place for wine writers in the robot future after all.
Press review:
JancisRobinson.com: “Smells of cranberry and raspberry fruit. Bright, silky flavours of cranberry and raspberry fruit are shot through with citrus peel and a hint of flowers. Faint tannins, excellent acidity. Hints of sour cherry linger in the finish with a touch of oak. Delicious. Drink now-2030.” 17.5 points
The Wine Advocate: "The 2021 Pinot Noir Los Alamos Vineyard has alluring, pure aromas of cranberry sauce, oolong tea leaves and tobacco, offering up something new with each return to the glass. The medium-bodied palate features crunchy fruit and finely chalky tannins, and its vibrant acidity highlights a fan of spicy accents on the finish. Drink now-2034." 93 points
Vinous: “The 2021 Pinot Noir Los Alamos Vineyard is gracious and effusive as wines from this site tend to be. Crushed flowers, bright, red-toned fruit, cedar, tobacco, and dried flowers all grace this refined, nuanced Pinot. Silky tannins wrap it all together. This is such a pretty wine. Drink now-2029." 93 points
“Ravishing and multidimensional.” - The Wine Advocate, 99 points
“Intense and glorious.” - JancisRobinson.com, 19 points
The Wine Advocate: “The 2018 Monte Bello is as classic a release from this storied site as ever. It contains 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc. A ravishing, multidimensional nose of wet clay, cocoa powder, peperoncini, cured meat and eucalyptus endlessly expands and congeals with further aeration. The palate precisely stitches together supple concentration and firm, coarse tannins that give sturdiness and intensity to its otherwise medium-bodied frame. The finish is amazingly long and delicious and begins to close down after a few hours, telling me this timeless wine should be left alone for the next 10-12 years. Superb through and through, this wine should excel past its 50th birthday. Drink now-2070.” 99 points
Jancis Robinson MW (October 2022):“Very dark crimson. The ripeness level is quite a shock immediately after the 1977! Floral cassis in abundance but nothing heavy. It’s supported on an air mattress of acidity and gives huge pleasure. I wouldn’t choose to drink the 2019 now but I could drink this! Great lift and freshness as well as all that ripe fruit. SO neat! Drink now-2045.” 19 points
… and just for good measure, Jancis tasted it again…
Jancis Robinson MW (April 2024):“Really deep blackish garnet. Already thoroughly rewarding on the nose – truly a bouquet of complexity! Some menthol with strong, ripe cassis. Already smells tertiary and utterly beguiling. Both rich and savoury with much dried-leaf character. Luscious, savoury fruit and yet with a dry, neat finish. Opulent but not sweet. Gloriously satisfying already but clearly set for a long, long life that will deliver even more pleasure. Intense and glorious. Drink 2024-2034.” 19 points