Artifice Listan Blanco, Borja Perez, Tenerife, Spain 2022

Artifice Listan Blanco bottle.jpg
Artifice Listan Blanco bottle.jpg

Artifice Listan Blanco, Borja Perez, Tenerife, Spain 2022

£29.95

“One of Tenerife's greatest bargains… As good as Domaine Roulot's Bourgogne Blanc.” - Tim Atkin MW, 94 points


Another wild and dramatic white from the volcanic island of Tenerife, which will challenge your ‘fight or flight’ reactions as your eyes widen and your nostrils flare at the sheer intensity of its aromas. Grapefruit, rocks broken open by a pickaxe, bacon fat, preserved lemons, salted nuts. It’s not dissimilar to the Trenzado from Suertes de Marques, which isn’t entirely surprising, as it’s made from the same grape (Listan Blanco) on the same island, but you could argue that there’s just a touch more ripeness of stone fruits here. An absolutely stunning wine for the price and one that everyone with a sense of adventure should try. Organic and biodynamically farmed. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2028.


Press reviews:

Tim Atkin MW
: “One of Tenerife's greatest bargains, Artífice is a pure Listán Blanco from nine parcels around La Guancha, all facing north between 300 and 700 metres. Mostly barrel fermented, with a 20% concrete component, this has an enticing struck match top note, flavours of pear and waxed lemons and subtle wood spices. As good as Domaine Roulot's Bourgogne Blanc. Drink 2025-30.” 94 points

The Wine Advocate (previous vintage):The 2021 Artífice Listán Blanco is always very spicy, pungent and incisive. Yields were very low, and it all fermented and matured in used 500-liter oak barrels. 2021 has more precision and definition with a little less volume in the mid palate and with more tension and rectitude. Drink now-2028.” 93 points

Jancis Robinson (previous vintage): Intense, smoked-rocks and samphire-in-rock-pool nose. Tastes like lemon chiselled out of a salt pan, like a cold mountain stream stained brown by bracken, like bleached sandy shells caught in kelp, like a white peach picked three days too early. It glitters, in the mouth. It's brine and salt spray crashing against cliffs. The Vin Cognito notes mentioned bacon fat. Tasting this cold out the fridge, I wrinkled my nose and thought, 'nonsense: too angular, too lemon, too mineral'. But then, a couple of hours later, after my glass had been sitting on the garden table warming in the sunlight, I took a sip and almost dropped the glass in shock. Yes! Lardo! Almost pork-scratching-like! Amazing, but yes, they're right. Bacon fat. Tempting as it is to drink a wine like this very cold, it became far more interesting at  >14 °C. Food pairing? I'd wrap scallops in lardo, flash fry them in a pan or pop them on a searingly hot barbecue for a minute or two, squeeze a fresh lemon over them, and kick back.17 points

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