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Vin Cognito

Wishful drinking

bubbles.bubbles.bubbles

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Bubbles.Bubbles.Bubbles
 

Featured
Pignoletto Frizzante Romandiola.jpg
Pignoletto Frizzante, Romandiola, Emilia Romagna, Italy NV
£13.95

We have applied to the rule-makers in Emiglia Romagna, asking for Pignoletto to be renamed Pignoletto Actually, because whenever we pour it for someone, they say “This is delicious! Is it Prosecco?” and we say “No, it’s Pignoletto actually.”

Pignoletto is a grape variety that is exclusively found in the hills above Bologna, as you had south-east towards Imola, and it produces a zippy and refreshing semi-sparkling wine of the same name that has ‘summertime’ written all over it. If you haven’t heard of it before, please don’t beat yourself up, because it only achieved appellation status in 2014, having been consumed locally for years before word spread and national, not to mention international interest was piqued.

Whereas Prosecco often has a slightly ‘soapy’ softness, Pignoletto has a crunchy, white-fleshed fruit profile, which really brightens the palate and makes it the perfect fillip for sunny weather.

In terms of dryness, it sits somewhere between Brut and Extra Dry (we like to call it 'softly dry') and is packed with lime, lemon and jasmine notes as well as an 'on trend' impression of stony soil or marble chippings. 

This delicious Pignoletto, made by Romandiola, has a tight white mousse and an appetite whetting freshness that makes it the perfect aperitif to be enjoyed in the sunshine with soft grass under your feet. 11.5% alc. Drink now. (That's an order not a drinking window).


Press review:

Decanter: “ Romandiola is the ancient name for Romagna. From Terre Cevico, a large, well-established cooperative, the grapes are grown on the hillsides above Imola and picked by hand. Herbal notes and hawthorn blossom on the nose, expressive and elegant palate with yellow-citrus flavours, a hint of lychee and a rounded finish.” 91 points


Customer comments:

"The Pignoletto went down a storm! Lots of people commented on how delicious it was - so it was a great choice!" - Ms. A.P.

"It was delicious! We drank more than anticipated so no doubt you will hear from me again soon!" - Ms. V.B.

"The Pignoletto was also really nice!" - Mr A.M.

Read more →
Cremant de Jura Brut Rose (large).jpg
Crémant du Jura Rosé, Fruitière Vinicole d'Arbois, France NV
£22.95

An absolutely delightful alternative to rosé Champagne. On the nose there’s strawberry shortcake, raspberry muffin crust and tangy redcurrant in the background. The palate is ripe and velvety, plush and juicy, with just a tickle of citrus and a real touch of Champagne elegance. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2029.

Press review:

Decanter: “This attractive blend of co-fermented Pinot Noir, Poulsard and Chardonnay is delicious and excellent value, with a fine mousse and bright nose of red fruits and hedgerow flowers. Rich and textured, with notes of strawberry, redcurrant and lemon thyme, it finishes with Jura’s characteristic iodine-saline zing.” 91 points

Read more →
Cremant de Jura.jpg
Crémant du Jura 'Chateau Bethanie' Brut, France NV
£23.95

“A wonderful aperitif paired with salty appetisers or a sophisticated wine at table with lighter dishes.” - Decanter, 92 points

It strikes us as odd that wine merchants take champagne so seriously when it's a drink that is all about celebrating. The context in which it finds itself is usually one filled with joy and laughter, not introspective chin-stroking, but wine merchants, in particular, feel the need to treat it with solemn reverence and technical minutiae about blending proportions, liqueur de tirage and disgorgement dates. I doubt Lewis Hamilton licks his lips on the podium and wonders what the dosage is.

This Crémant du Jura is an excellent alternative to celebrating with Champagne and it comes from the Jura’s largest and oldest co-operative. It’s a joyful burst of apple pie, brioche, pineapple turnover and shortbread with some citrus bite and a little chalky note on the finish. Whilst the base of this cuvée is 100% Chardonnay, the wine is given a different dimension with the inspired addition of a tiny percentage of Vin Jaune prior to bottling. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2029.

Press review:

Decanter: “A classy, bone-dry wine that is a pure Chardonnay base wine with a decisive addition of Vin Jaune, made from Savagnin, as dosage. Exquisite aromas of salted cashew and green almond. This supple, nutty, salty savouriness runs through the wine. A wonderful aperitif paired with salty appetisers or a sophisticated wine at table with lighter dishes. The mousse is fine, the flavours clear-cut. Sleek, salty and divine, with that lovely extra dimension of flavour. Drink now-2030.“ 92 points

Jancis Robinson: "Very fresh with some baked apple on the nose. Rich, ripe lemon and apple on the palate and finishes nicely dry. Definitely one of the better crémants tasted today – ripe fruit but excellent balancing freshness. A tiny note of biscuity autolytic character but this is not the focus. Good Value. Drink now." 16.5 points

Read more →
Petillant Naturel 'Anima', Frederic Mabileau, Loire, France 2023
Petillant Naturel 'Anima', Frederic Mabileau, Loire, France 2023
£24.95

A gorgeous ‘pet nat’ made from Chenin Blanc, aged on its lees for 2 years, showing not only fresh fruit aromas and flavours of ripe peach and green pear, but also some feint hints of crumbled shortbread from the extended lees ageing. Fun and not entirely frivolous! 11% alc. Wild yeasts. Minimal sulphur (15 mg/l). Drink now-2030

Petillant Naturel
Also called méthode ancestrale (the original, pre-Champagne method), it involves only one continuous fermentation that completes in the bottle without added sugar or yeast, so there is no dosage.

Read more →
Montlouis 'Triple Zero', Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, Loire, France NV
Montlouis 'Triple Zero', Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, Loire, France NV
from £29.95

“So much more interesting than common-or-garden Champagne.” - Jancis Robinson MW


Drink this now, by all means, as it’s a delicious, pristine-fruited sparkling wine made in the style of a petillant naturel (i.e. fermented in bottle like Champagne, but not disgorged),but please stash a few bottles away too, as it’s a wine that ages phenomenally well, gaining weight and richness as it does so. Master of Wine, Jancis Robinson, recently tasted the 2009 vintage (12 years on) and had this to say: “Irresistible, stunning wine that held its own when tasted alongside Cristal 2013 and Krug 2008.” The current release is 2019 (although it’s not declared on the label, so we treat it as non-vintage), so based on my simple, back-of-a-postcard calculations, this should be at its peak from 2026 to 2032. 12.5% alc. Drink now (as an aperitif) or between 2028 and 2032 (as a richer sparkling wine to enjoy with food).

Titbit: Fans of the novelist, Julian Barnes, might be interested to know that this was chosen as the sparkling wine at the launch of his final novel ‘Departure(s)’.


Press Reviews:


Jancis Robinson MW: “Pale gold. Glorious Chenin on the nose. Toasty and tangy and dry on the end with more than a hint of Jurançon about it, oddly. But so much more interesting than common-or-garden champagne. Very Good Value.” 17 points

The Wine Advocate: “The NV Triple Zero, a sparkling Montlouis, opens with aromas of pear, peach, honey and white flowers. Moderately weighted, round and subtly sweet, it reveals a delicate mousse and a long, mouthwatering finish. Precise and elegant, this is a refined and beautifully crafted bottle.” 92 points

Tamlyn Currin for JancisRobinson.com
: “I can't help thinking that Jancis may have under-scored this wine when she tasted it in April this year, especially as the wine has proven to punch way above its price bracket and age incredibly well. Sea shells and honey on the nose and a super-fine unfurling of bubbles – reminds me of the foam lines left curving across the sand when the hiss of a lazy wave has retreated back down the beach. Hints of honey and honeysuckle, quince and the soft spiciness of ripe pear. I would expect a triple zero (dosage, chaptalisation, tirage) wine to be pretty austere and formidable – most are – but this is exceptionally gentle. The Vin Cognito crew say this will age. I have two more bottles, so watch this space... Seems insanely underpriced. Very Good Value.” 17.5 points

Decanter (Natalie Earl): “A wine that manages to be both soft and vibrant, rich and mineral. An impressive feat. Bruised apple flesh and honeysuckle on the nose, with toasted brioche, walnut and green apple skin giving great complexity. Long on the finish with lovely acidity and a chalky texture. It's fun and incredibly drinkable but the complex varietal character of Chenin Blanc shines through. Old Chenin vines provide the fruit for this méthode ancestrale sparkling, which has had no chaptalisation, no liqueur de tirage and no liqueur de dosage added - hence the Triple Zero name. Spontaneously fermented, the wine is bottled before fermentation has finished, which is where it gains its bubbles. It's then aged on its lees for 24 months, lending depth and texture to this excellent value wine.” 93 points 

James Suckling: “Comforting nose of apples, baked lemons, quince zest and some brioche, too. Medium body with fine bubbles and crisp acidity. Lively and agile with a mineral frame. Bone dry and bright at the center with weight. Flavorful and succulent finish. Drink or hold.” 93 points 

Vinous: 
“The NV Montlouis-sur-Loire Triple Zero spends between two and three years on lees, lending a lovely richness to the mid-palate. It was bottled with no dosage, but picking later gave the wine balance and roundness‡no austerity or hardness. The Triple Z,ro is gently sparkling (bottles at 3 atmospheres rather than the usual 5-6 for champagne) with great clarity and precision. There,s excellent focus and tenderness here.” 92 points

Decanter Magazine (Jane Anson): “One of the world’s great-value sparkling wines, this is made from 100% Chenin Blanc grapes, from 50-year-old vines fermented with natural yeasts. Triple Zéro means no sugar added at any point – you get crisp, focused notes of citrus and peaches. Certified organic.” 92 points 

Revue des Vins de France:
“Souvent imité, rarement égalé, Jacky Blog produit le petillant naturel de reference à Montlouis sur Loire… Il affine ses bulles et cherche plus de precision à chaque millésime… Sa finesse es sa régularité en font la référence des pétillants naturels de Loire. La demande dépasse l’offre.” 18/20

English translation:
“Often imitated, rarely equaled, Jacky Blog produces the reference natural sparkling wine in Montlouis sur Loire… It refines its bubbles and seeks more precision with each vintage… Its finesse and consistency make it the benchmark for natural sparkling wines from the Loire. Demand exceeds supply.”


Customer comments:

“Such a splendid wine! It punches well above its price tag.” Mr. A.I.

”
It was gorgeous.” - Mr. V. S.

”I have just tried the Triple Zero and it is every bit as sensational as you have suggested! May I please have 6 more bottles as I am unlikely to be able to make the first 6 last as long as I probably should.” - Mr. A.K.

“The Triple Zero is as good as your write up, if not better!” - Mr V.G.

”
I think it’s great!” - Mr. H.S.

Read more →
Cremant de Bourgogne Brut Reserve, Domaine Deliance, Burgundy, France NV
Cremant de Bourgogne Brut Reserve, Domaine Deliance, Burgundy, France NV
£28.95

“Tasted blind, you’d be forgiven for confusing this with Champagne. It is truly excellent.” - Decanter, 93 points


Cremant de Bourgogne is almost always referred to as a less expensive alternative to Champagne, which is fair enough, given the similarities in the way it is made, but give the kid a break, it doesn’t always have to play the plucky little brother role. We think this one is just as good as many a brut Champagne. It displays a pale silver colour with hints of burnished copper and aromas of shortbread, citrus and apple strudel. It’s made in the traditional method from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Aligoté. 12% alc. Drink now-2028.


Press review:

Decanter: “Tasted blind, you’d be forgiven for confusing this with Champagne. It is truly excellent, with beautiful balance, elegance and buckets of zesty freshness, with that refreshment factor underscored by appealing richness and depth.” 93 points

Read more →
Veuve Fourny Blanc de Blancs NV.jpg
Champagne Veuve Fourny Extra Brut, Blanc de Blancs, Premier Cru NV
from £42.50

“The Brut Premier Cru is flat-out delicious. That's pretty much all there is to it.” - The Wine Advocate


Decanter Magazine picked this out as one their top Champagnes to try, saying: “From the village of Vertus, this spends three years on its lees with 20% reserve wine, and is all white flowers and natural ripeness. The low 6 g/l dosage brings a fine dry finish.” We think there’s a wonderful vibrancy and a daring nakedness to the fruit that awakens your tastebuds in the most appetising way, making it the perfect aperitif Champagne. Not a rich style, but very perky and refreshing without being shrill thanks to the ripe and beautifully balanced fruit and the judicious use of barrel-ageing. 12%. Drink now-2030.


Press reviews:

The Financial Times (Jancis Robinson MW):“50-year-old vines, a blend of about 65% 2020 with reserve wines from the previous three vintages. Delicate despite the oak influence. A very interesting combo! And a very well-judged blend. Gently rather than aggressively sparkling. Drink now-2030.”

Vinous: “The NV Extra Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru bristles with tension and energy. Lemon peel, crushed rocks, white pepper and jasmine lend striking brightness to this ethereal yet focused Blanc de Blancs. Bright saline notes punctuate the finish in style. The Extra Brut approach works so well in this bottling. Drink now-2028.” 93 points

The Wine Advocate: “The NV Extra Brut Premier Cru sizzles with tension. Lemon confit, green pear and exotic floral notes open first, followed by hints of tropical fruit that add striking inner perfume. Bright saline notes extend the finish effortlessly. The Brut Premier Cru is flat-out delicious. That's pretty much all there is to it. Drink now-2028.” 92 points

Decanter Magazine: “This cuvee is a great introduction to this small family house that specialises in Chardonnay. This wine offers richness but also subtle, white floral notes. It spent three years on its lees and was bottled with very low dosage. Very vinous with a nice mouthfeel. Great Price!” 17.75/20

Xavier Rousset MS "Veuve Fourny's Champagne often come out with high marks when I taste them blind. Under the radar for most of us, but worth highlighting and of course tasting."

Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide: “Fourny’s mandate of purity and precision shimmers in lemon zest, grapefruit pith, fresh pear, crunchy white peach and granny smith apple of soap-powder brightness. Pristine fruit expression, wonderful concentration and refinement are upheld at every moment, propelled by the texture and depth of barrel-aged reserves, adding hints of roast nuts and a suggestion of anise. A long, soft, salty mineral finish speaks clearly of the terroir of Vertus.” 94 points

Customer Comments:

“Exceptionally good!" - Mr R.H.

“We tried the Champagne last night - perfect!" - Mr. J. B.

"Tried the V Fourny BdB - loved it! As did my wife." - Mr. G.C.

”I’m not usually a big fan of champagne as I find after the second glass it’s a bit acidic but I found myself drinking this champagne for most of the evening. It was delicious.” - Mr. J.M.

”Fabulous Champagne!” - Ms. S. M.

“We’ve just, popped the first bottle of Fourny and it is DELIGHTFUL!” - Mr. J. R.

Read more →
Champagne Veuve Fourny Rosé Brut, Premier Cru NV
Champagne Veuve Fourny Rosé Brut, Premier Cru NV
£46.00

“In a word: sublime.” - The Wine Advocate, 94 points

Nothing lifts your spirits more than a glass of rosé Champagne and this is a dry and delicate Brut made from Premier Cru Pinot Noir and Chardonnay sourced from 40 year-old vines. As with all of Veuve Fourny’s Champagnes, they are proud to exhibit the quality of their fruit and they don’t attempt to disguise it behind a high dosage, so this is resolutely dry with only 6 grams per litre of residual sugar. 12.5% alc Drink now-2029.


Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “The NV Brut Rosé Premier Cru is fabulous. Rich, ample and beautifully resonant in the glass, the Premier Cru dazzles from the very first taste. Unlike the Blanc Premier Crus in this range, the Rosé has more body and textural intensity, all of which make for an absolutely compelling wine. I love the vinous intensity here. Orange peel, raspberry and kirsch linger on the Pinot-driven finish. In a word: sublime. Drink now-2028.” 94 points

JancisRobinson.com: “This deep-coloured, almost tomato-red champagne is so meaty and substantial and intense that it is first wine then champagne. It smells of red apple and bitter orange peel. It tastes of tamarillos and pitanga berries, tart raspberries, the citrus fragrance of telicherry peppercorns, cinnamon stick. Tiny tight bubbles buzz with tiny tongue-tingling voltage. It feels like running my tongue over old weathered stones. We threw it in at the deep end, pairing it with hokkigai marinated in ponzu with fresh coriander, spring onions, ginger and sesame oil, and this gorgeous wine went toe to toe, with casual grace, with all those game-changing ingredients. I’d love to try this with beef! (Tamlyn Currin). Drink now-2026.” 17 points

Vinous: “The NV Brut Rosé is a real stand-out. Deep, beautifully layered and vinous, the Rosé comes alive in the glass. Blood orange, rose petal, mint and cinnamon build in a compelling Rosé that marries richness and vibrancy. In a word: compelling. Drink now-2027.” 94 points

Decanter: "Veuve Fourny in Vertus is a specialist in turning out true Côte des Blancs rosés using Vertus Pinot Noir. This effortlessly pretty, fragrant non-vintage uses 13% red wine from the village, together with 40% Pinot Noir as blanc de noirs and 47% Chardonnay from reserve to craft a rosé perfectly poised between sweet red apple, cherry and nectarine fruits, an energising squeeze of Chardonnay citrus and subtle richness of sourdough toast and fresh nut. Joyous." 93 points

Read more →
Sugrue 'The Trouble With Dreams' Vintage Brut, South Downs, England 2020
Sugrue 'The Trouble With Dreams' Vintage Brut, South Downs, England 2020
£48.00

“Top-of-the-range English fizz.” - Julia Harding MW

Exceptional English sparkling wine (with eye-catching packaging) from the South Downs made by Nyetimber's former winemaker, Dermot Sugrue. This cuvee is a traditional blend of 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, partially fermented in ex-burgundy barrels. Extremely limited production. 12% alc. Dosage 6 g/l. No foil capsule. Drink now-2035.


Press reviews:

Tamlyn Currin for JancisRobinson.com: “The grip of this wine, the spectacular tension, the way it goes from flowers to gravel in an instant… it curls your toes. It's both visceral and cerebral. It contours like a blade, a scintilla of steel. Powerful, uncompromising structure. Marble and matcha and membrillo and greengage and lime. And then as it opens in the glass and also over several days, a building of richness and honey on a promise. But back to steel on the high-wired finish. (TC). Drink now-2035." 17.5++ points

Julia Harding for JancisRobinson.com:“Part of the wine was fermented in 600-litre bottle. Subtle yeasty notes and a creamy richness allied to bright lemon fruit and a hint of clementine and still a hint of white blossom, both youthful and complex. Even with modest alcohol and high acidity this is mouth-filling yet also attention-grabbing in its refinement. Creamy, mouth-watering and incredibly persistent. Top-of-the-range English fizz. Drink now-2030.” 17.5 points

Read more →
Champagne Veuve Fourny ‘Cuvee R’ Extra Brut, Vertus NV
Champagne Veuve Fourny ‘Cuvee R’ Extra Brut, Vertus NV
£56.00

“Lovely rich biscuit aroma, apple and herbal tea fruit. Rounded, long, with a lovely dairy character on the mid palate,” writes Richard Hemming on Jancis Robinson.com, awarding it the highest score of any non-vintage Champagne and equalling or outperforming the likes of Krug 2003, Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 2004, Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs 2004, Veuve Clicquot 2004 and Louis Roederer 2006. A beautifully presented Chardonnay-dominant Champagne, that was vinified in small oak barrels, which adds textural richness to this opulent bottle of decadence. 12% alc. Drink now-2030.

Jancis Robinson MW: “100% Chardonnay from old vines, first-pressed must, vinified in wood, 18 months on lees in cask. No filtration, 4 years in bottle. Made 50/50 from two vintages, 2011 and 2012. Dosage 3 g/l. The R is Roger, the Fourny brothers’ father. Pale greenish straw. Dense and fresh with real class and interest. Linseed oil and excellent balance. Dry, appetising finish.“ 16.5 points

The Wine Advocate: “This is a beautifully precise, vibrant Champagne that emerges with attractive layers of perfumed, expressive fruit wrapped around a rich, creamy finish. The presence of red grapes and oak give the wine a level of depth and richness that deftly balances the intense minerality of Vertus and the house style.” 93 points

Decanter Magazine: "Expressive, citrussy, fresh and clean with mirabelle, greengage and bergamot. On the palate there is plenty of flesh, with a silky chocolate character. Maturing gracefully with great complexity."

Decanter Magazine Panel Tasting:

Michael Edwards:
"A tribute to the late father of the two Fourny brothers. Pure Vertus (sourced mainly from Monts Ferres), this is partly fermented in oak, in Papa's style. Shows a powerful personality, yet has lift and a racy finesse." 17.5/20 points, Highly Recommended


Customer comments:

"I tried the R BV already and very much enjoyed it. Overall the Veuve Fournys are tremendous and very good value." - Mr M.S.

”
The champagne was delicious (and such beautiful bottles!)” - Mr. B.T.

Read more →
 

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