Italy

We have applied to the rule-makers in Emiglia Romagna, asking for Pignoletto to be renamed Pignoletto Actually, because whenever we pour it for someone, they say “This is delicious! Is it Prosecco?” and we say “No, it’s Pignoletto actually.”

Pignoletto is a grape variety that is exclusively found in the hills above Bologna, as you had south-east towards Imola, and it produces a zippy and refreshing semi-sparkling wine of the same name that has ‘summertime’ written all over it. If you haven’t heard of it before, please don’t beat yourself up, because it only achieved appellation status in 2014, having been consumed locally for years before word spread and national, not to mention international interest was piqued.

Whereas Prosecco often has a slightly ‘soapy’ softness, Pignoletto has a crunchy, white-fleshed fruit profile, which really brightens the palate and makes it the perfect fillip for sunny weather.

In terms of dryness, it sits somewhere between Brut and Extra Dry (we like to call it 'softly dry') and is packed with lime, lemon and jasmine notes as well as an 'on trend' impression of stony soil or marble chippings. 

This delicious Pignoletto, made by Romandiola, has a tight white mousse and an appetite whetting freshness that makes it the perfect aperitif to be enjoyed in the sunshine with soft grass under your feet. 11.5% alc. Drink now. (That's an order not a drinking window).

Press review:

Decanter: “ Romandiola is the ancient name for Romagna. From Terre Cevico, a large, well-established cooperative, the grapes are grown on the hillsides above Imola and picked by hand. Herbal notes and hawthorn blossom on the nose, expressive and elegant palate with yellow-citrus flavours, a hint of lychee and a rounded finish.” 91 points

Customer comments:

"The Pignoletto went down a storm! Lots of people commented on how delicious it was - so it was a great choice!" - Ms. A.P.

"It was delicious! We drank more than anticipated so no doubt you will hear from me again soon!" - Ms. V.B.

"The Pignoletto was also really nice!" - Mr A.M.

Kick your shoes off. This is that glass of white wine, frosty from condensation, with silver green reflections, that you have been thinking about all day. Crisp and refreshing, but far from hollow in the middle, it’s zesty and stony and flinty with flavours of cut lime, lychee, mint, white flowers and green melon. It’s almost worth having an awful day at work, just to be able to come home to this! 12% alc. Drink now-2028.

A mountain wine, breezy and fresh, billowing with meadow flowers, gooseberry and blackcurrant aromas, so, in that respect, reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc, but there’s a little twist of nutmeg that takes it off in an interesting oriental direction too. Dry, vibrant and delicately refreshing. From vineyards situated at 720 metres above sea level, fermented and raised in stainless steel with the wine kept on the lees until bottling. 13% alc. Drink now-2025.

The Oxford Companion to Wine describes the Verdeca grape as “producing neutral wine suitable for the vermouth industry and declining in popularity.” After tasting this example, we demand a rewrite! Masseria Li Veli have fashioned a Verdeca full of character, which is anything but neutral. It pours a shimmering silver gold colour, but with distinctive green highlights and perhaps that’s how Verdeca got its name. The palate is tangy and juicy, exhibiting green fig, mirabelle de Nancy and white peach as well as ground pistachio and a hint of satsuma on the finish. Despite all that exuberance, it’s completely dry and neatly corseted into shape by its citric acidity. 13% alc. Drink now-2028. Organic (certified)

“Terre Nere’s Etna Bianco is one of the best values coming out of Sicily today.”- Eric Guido, Vinous

“Terre Nere is one of the star producers in Etna.”- Jamie Goode

This delectable white from the northern slopes of Mount Etna gently evokes its volcanic origins without taking you on the full white-knuckle ride that some of the more dramatic examples can do. It is bright and chic, with subtle, smoky, crumbled stone notes set beautifully against pithy citrus fruits, mandarin, grapefruit, wild flowers and blanched almonds. It has the cool precision of a maritime wine with its flavours coaxed along by a refreshingly tangy acidity, a chalky mineral mouthfeel and a lovely salted nuttiness on the finish. It is a blend of Carricante (70%) with the other 30% made up from indigenous Catarratto, Inzolia, Grecanico and Minnella grapes from 20-60 year old vines grown at 600-900 metres. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2028. Organic (certified)

Press review:

Vinous: “A whiff of lemon oil mixes with sweet mint and crushed rocks as the 2024 Etna Bianco opens in the glass. This is juicy and playful in feel with ripe melon and a cascade of inner florals that swirl throughout. It leaves a salty sensation and nuances of candied citrus on the wickedly fresh finish. Drink now-2027” 92 points

Customer comments:

“Just love the Etna Bianco” - Mr T.K.

“Delicious!” - Mr. J.C.

“Love the Sicilian white from Terre Nere by the way” - Mr T.B.

This beautifully stylish and elegant Italian white is a blend of Vespaiolo and Garganega, which would appear to be very comfortable bedfellows on the evidence of this. The two grapes are vinified and matured separately, the Garganega spending 15 months in oak barrels, while the Vespaiolo is aged in stainless steel. This is just the sort of wine, that we would love a sommelier to recommend to us, when looking for something delicious and unusual on an intimidating wine list. It’s interesting without being weird. It has the cutting, flinty edge that foodies love, as it brings a little dash to lighter dishes that benefit from a little mineral kick to add dimension (dressed crab, langoustines, scallops, oysters). It’s wonderfully clean, with a bright core of apples, lemons and frosty, winter fruits and a nervy acidity that drives the flavours across the palate and prepares you for your next sip. Organic & biodynamic. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2030.

NB You may have noticed this wine’s absence on our list for a few years, having previously been one of our all-time favourite white discoveries. Since the 2018 vintage, the winemaker has been playing around with the blend and ageing of the wine (both the containers and the duration). We weren’t as smitten with this “new” style as we had been with the previous vintages and our love for it waned a little. We explained our impressions to the winemaker, and it seems he has taken our comments into account. We are delighted to say that we think the wine is back on song with this 2022 vintage!  

Press Review (on the 2018, the previous vintage we shipped):

JancisRobinson.com: “I described the 2016 of this wine as vivid, restless, demanding. The 2017 as Machu Picchu; intense, fierce, massive, dramatic. The 2018 is different. It is still breath-taking. It still comes with a long, long spine of coruscating acidity, glittering with the crystalline, fractal complexity of hoar frost. It still carves the tongue with precision engineering, has a lensatic focus. But this vintage is more limpid. Kinder, somehow. There is a gentleness. The honeysuckle and apricots of the previous vintages have already unfurled, come forward, proffered a softer, let-me-lead-you-to-my-places hand. The 'golden' of the wine comes with a lime-sharp cast, but the golden is warm and the lime is simply etched poetry. It has this wonderful, soul-searching bitterness embroidered into the saline succulence of its sapidity. It is, quite frankly, impossible to have one glass of this wine. Unless you're made of stone. (TC) Very Good Value. Drink now-2028” 17.5 points

Customer comments on previous vintages:

“Delicious” - Mr S.O.

“I have to say… we are fully onboard with your enthusiasm here. This is a really great find! Such an incredible nose to it and it looks so unassuming in the bottle. I think we will be ordering a few more in short order.” - Mr D.C.

“Just opened one and it is outstanding, your marketing and tasting notes are spot on! Never heard of the grapes but the wine making is top drawer! Great find!” - Mr. P.W.

“That Il Pendio was so so good - I couldn't let it run out without grabbing a case.” - Mr A.T.

“I tried a bottle tonight - it was sensational!” - Mr V.G.

“I look forward to getting some more of this delicious wine on Friday. Superb stuff!” - Mr. R.W.

“Picked the Italian white to try with some risotto- very fine and elegant indeed.” - Mr M.B.

“We loved Pendio.” - Mr T.M.

“Just had some of the il Pendio 😁 smashing!” - Mr J.F.

“I’ve tried two bottles of the Il Pendioand I think it’s absolutely delicious!” - Mr J.H

”Lovely wine, quite flinty and buttery at the same time.” Mr. D.F.

”Thanks very much for letting me have some of this beautiful wine. If you get hold of some more I’d definitely buy more and would be keen to follow up with the next vintage.” - Mr. R.W.

“We loved the Il Pendio.....almost all gone now....do you have any more?” - Mr J.C.

”We opened the Il Pendio to accompany dinner and it was gone before the starter, sublime.” - Mr. G..O.

“We had another delicious Il Pendio last night. It really is a stonking wine.” - Mr T.M.

”I have to report back that it is superb. A little polite (and dairy) on the nose, but superb and food friendly chardonnay-esque flavour.” - Mr. R.G.

“I wanted to write to you to tell you how much I enjoyed my first bottle of Il Pendio. It is everything you claim for it and more, quite as good as a good Condrieu or Meursault at half the price.” - Mr I.G.

“That Il Pendio is excellent. Great find.” - Mr. A.P.

What stood out at first was the lovely pale silver-sage colour with green flecks at the edge. It looked so refreshing and made me crave my first sip. The taste aligned perfectly with the visual impression, with cool, crystal-clear Trebbiano flavours awakening my tastebuds like a mountain stream flowing over aquatic grasses, although this mountain stream tasted of lime, pear, sweet apple and green melon! It’s the perfect wine for a dinner party, as it’s elegantly understated and has universal appeal, but it also has enough interest to merit a little quiet inner contemplation, should your dinner guest turn the topic of conversation to loft conversions. It can also be that idyllic glass of white wine, frosty from condensation, iridescent in its shades of green, that you have been thinking about all day at the office. It’s almost worth having an awful day at work, just to be able to come home to this! 13% alc. Unoaked. Drink now-2028.

Customer comment:

“Delicious!” - Ms A.S.

“Have you got any more of the Lugana? Tonight is the first time I have had an opportunity to try it. Really good. I will order 12 bottles if you have them.” - Mr I.M.

“The Lugana is the best I’ve drunk. Delicious.” - Mr. K.D.

“This wine was delicious! So easy to drink with or without food! So so good!” - Mr H.S.

This is like a spring meadow in a glass. White flowers, vetiver, edelweiss, gooseberry, lime and something slightly herbal or grassy. A fine line of green apple acidity brings all the elements into alignment, finishing on a dainty note of nutmeg. If you like Cantina Terlano’s Pinot Bianco Riserva ‘Vorberg’, then my human intelligence algorithm says that you should also like this. 13.5% alc. Dry. Drink now-2026.

Press reviews:

The Wine Enthusiast: “Delicate scents of tropical fruit, cake spice and citrus shape the inviting nose on this stunning white. The delicious, medium-bodied palate delivers juicy peach, grapefruit, nutmeg and wild herb while white almond and flinty mineral notes lend depth. It's vibrant, with bright acidity.” 94 points

The Wine Advocate: “Here's a pretty white that has not been reviewed in a while. The Pacher Hof 2021 Alto Adige Valle Isarco Kerner shows a bright personality with tropical flower, wild sage, crushed stone, tea leaf and green melon. There are distant hints of petrol or smoke that offer a loose indication of where this wine is headed as it continues its bottle evolution. I love its tight impact on the senses.” 92 points


Customer comment:

”I liked the Kerner hugely.” - Mr S.C.

Be prepared that this wine makes no attempt to ingratiate itself into polite society, it arrives brushing dust off its shoulders and kicking volcanic soil off its boots. It comes from the southwest side of Mount Etna, and is made from unoaked Carricante, which takes its natural citrus fruit flavours (the skin and the pith and all), and mixes them with salty sea air and rocky, earthy minerals to produce a wine of unmistakeable local character. A wine that can handle bold flavours, so try it with chicken couscous, barbecued eel (“fantastic” according to Jancis Robinson) or any dish that typically demands a squeeze of lemon. 12% alc. Drink now-2029.

Press review:

Decanter (previous vintage): “Expressive and robust, showing powerful elegance and great textural appeal, this is a Carricante that balances classicism and modernity. Green apple, quince, and white grapefruit at the core with an elegant top layer of lemon balm, white roses and linden. Very long on the palate with focus and a delicious chalky grip that makes it linger on the palate. Lingering notes of grapefruit pith, preserved lemon and pear peel.” 93 points

A sense of place is usually the first casualty of inexpensive wines, but this red tastes inescapably Italian. There’s a glossiness, reminiscent of shiny Morello cherry skins, a tangy hint of orange peel, as you might find in a Cinzano, a ripeness of red-fleshed plums, typical of a Sicilian red, and a hint of glamour, bringing a touch of La Dolce Vita. It’s a crimson ribbon of a wine, flowing easily without the friction of tannins, a wine for early-drinking and thanks to the high altitude of the vineyards, there’s a juicy freshness to the palate. 12.5% alc. A blend of Nero d’Avola (85%) and Syrah (15%). Drink now-2029.

There is so much character and beauty in this wine! The high-toned aromas summon thoughts of sautéed plums, cherry jam, sweet saddle leather, loose tea and puréed blackcurrants and those sweetly ripe Puglian flavours make welcome the mouth-watering acidity. The palate is wonderfully generous and full-bodied, but favours fleshy succulence and fine-grained opulence rather than tannic heft with more of those sunny flavours given further complexity with notes of sweet tobacco, wood polish, cigar box spices, fruit-drenched wood and something mysteriously evocative, like the old library in a faded stately home. It leaves you in no doubt as to the wine’s place of origin – the flavours guide you there as if you were following a GPS signal. This is downright delicious! A rambunctious, heart-on-its-sleeve bargain of a wine, which comes with our highest recommendation. 14% alc. A blend of Negroamaro (90%) and Malvasia Nera (10%) aged for two years in wooden barrels and then in bottle. Drink now – 2028.

Press review:

Tamlyn Currin for JancisRobinson.com: “I’m always happy, amazed, and more than a bit relieved when I come across a Salice Salentino that is under 15% alcohol (there are plenty edging towards 16%, to be frank). Farming vines that yield balanced wine on the heel of the boot of Italy is a knife-edge art. It’s hot and dry – grapes want to be raisins. But Cantina San Donaci has somehow pulled off a wine that is 14% and gorgeously fresh, but also every generous molecule of its place. I can taste the beating sun in the dried-cherry fruit, the light singe of cooked plum and molasses, but it’s not ‘cooked’ in the sense of over-hung and over-done, it’s just honest. I can taste Turkish coffee, dark chocolate, roasted almonds, prunes. I can taste delicious tomato jam. It’s a tagine in a glass: smoky, hot bricks, spices-tomatoes-berries-sweetness so melded that there is no telling them apart. The tannins slide down and out, giving way to the fruit like the supporting act gives way to the headline. Sip with slow-cooked mutton. Or chill a little and sip with chickpeas and sun-dried tomatoes drenched in olive oil. Good Value. Drink now-2028.” 17 points

Customer comments:

“Really, really big fan of this. Loved it.” - Mr O.M.

There were 827 wines on show at the Italian wine fair, where we discovered this wine and, judging by the purple teeth and general dishevelment of some of the attendees, 827 was seen as a target to be reached, rather than an opportunity to cherry-pick one or two interesting wines. We tasted no more than a hundred, focusing entirely on ‘value’ and eschewing the ‘trophy’ wines, around which the shiny-shoed were gathered to admire each other’s sunglasses.

This was the standout wine of the day, the 1% Club, so to speak. It immediately gave us that mellow, sun-filled glamour that we love in a good Cannonau from Sardinia, hinting at bing cherry, sun-softened Burgundy plums, tomato leaf, orange peel and sandalwood. It went beautifully with some roast pork and crackling, pliant enough to accompany the meat, while having the acidity to cut through the crackling. It’s not a big bruiser of a wine, only medium-deep in colour and body, which is quite typical of Cannonau di Sardegna. 14% alc. Drink now-2030.

Press review:

Decanter (previous vintage): “Medium ruby in colour, it is fresh and fragrantly spicy with an appealing floral top note. The fruit is youthful, vigorous and fresh, with vibrant energy thanks to its medium-bodied sour cherry fruit underpinned by an appealing savoury dryness that runs in parallel with a delicate grip of supple tannins and juicy freshness.” 91 points

In a great vintage, all boats rise with the same tide, and in Tuscany, in 2021, it’s most noticeable at the inexpensive end. This Chianti has always been great value, but in 2021 it’s astonishingly good! I’m not going to waffle on about flavours, because you know what Chianti tastes like, the notable thing is the way the flavours have tessellated like a mosaic. There’s a warmth and a sun-kissed softness, with sweet tannins and a hint of forest floor and tobacco leaf on the finish. Classic, mid-weight Chianti at a frankly ridiculous price! Drink now-2030.

Press review:

JancisRobinson.com (previous vintage): “OK, this is going to sound a little weird, but this Chianti tastes of hazelnuts, even praline. It tastes as if vanilla and cherries have gently caramelised into nut brittle and roasted chestnuts. But the acidity is plum-skin red and just a little chewy, unlike the tannins which feel like a Persian carpet. Warm, inviting spiciness, like walking into a kitchen where the gingerbread has just come out the oven. Nothing sleek about this heart-on-sleeve Chianti Classico. Brava. The world needs more wines like this. Very Good Value.” 16.5 points

According to Italy’s prestigious ‘50 Top Pizza Awards’, the best pizza restaurant in Europe isn’t in Naples, Palermo or Rome, but Chiswick, West London. It’s actually my local, or at least it used to be, but I can’t get a table anymore, because it’s full of Instagram tourists, so I have to make do with the occasional takeaway. The only good thing about that is that I discovered the wonderful combination of their pizza diavola with this Nero d’Avola. Not only does it rhyme, but the flavours chime too, with the spicy spianata sausage and basil finding their perfect match in the sunny Mediterranean flavours of wild, dark cherry, sweet, black plum and tangy cassis in this hearty Sicilian red. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2030.

Click here to see the ‘50 Top Pizza Award’ winners.

It is thought that one of the main reasons why Merlot gained such a strong foothold among the public is that it is easy to say when ordering in a restaurant, in much the same way that Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso isn’t. It’s a shame, because Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso is a grape that can make fantastic wine, especially in Friuli, where its noble history dates back over two millennia (Pliny the Elder cited it as the favourite wine of Augustus’s wife, Livia, circa 20 BC!).

I was curious to see if Jancis Robinson had reviewed many Refosco dal Peduncolo Rossos on her website and I only found a handful, but the same adjectives recurred several times: “gorgeous”, “generous”, “seductive” and “sassy”. That chimes with our experience, because it’s a really expressive wine with dramatic aromas, and this example has theatrical swagger to burn. It’s a flamboyant and sensual red, serpentine as its flavours coil around your tongue, evocative of blood-red cherries steeped in orange juice, sweet spices from the bazaar, the juice of red-fleshed plums combined with cinnamon, neroli and mandarin oil. So, why hasn’t Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso caught on? It’s really hard to say. 13% alc. 12 months in barriques and tonneau. Drink now-2031.

Press review (previous vintage):

JancisRobinson.com (Tamlyn Currin): “Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, with its naturally high acidity and often alarmingly firm tannins, can sometimes be pretty hard work. This wine is anything but. Light ruby-to-garnet colour and a nose that smells sweet and fragrant, perhaps a little vanilla pod and cinnamon from oak, perhaps a little orange blossom. There is definitely the fragrance of oranges on the palate – I can almost smell the oils in the air as I'm peeling the orange in my head. And the fruit is so sweet and bright and pumping flavour and alacritous that I can't make it stand still for long enough to be identified. Was that red cherry? Or tangerine? Or maybe rose hip with a sidekick of pitanga? Did I spot a red splat of fresh pomegranate somewhere in there? Yes. Yes. Yes and yes and yes. And the fruit is festooned with lilac blossom, white thyme flowers, a dusting of sumac and baharat. The tannins weave, deft, dextrous, dancing through fruit like ribbons in a Dunhuang dance. Light clouds of white pepper that simply get washed away by wave after wave of this flagrantly seductive wine. Is this really less than £20? VERY GOOD VALUE. Drink 2024-2030” 17.5 points

Customer comments (including previous vintage):

“Please reserve me another 6 bottles of the delicious Refosco - which provides the very drinkable combination of good concentration without excessive weight… Oh, and it's tremendous value too.” - Mr T.M.

“Just tasted it - terrific!” - Mr A.S.

“The red from Friuli is excellent.” - Mr E.C-W.

“We had the Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso last night, we both thought it was lovely, can we order some more please?” - Mrs. S. G.  

“The Refosco has been a huge success. I bought some recently and thought it SUPERB. Such a lovely, balanced, interesting wine.” - Mr. S. R.

“We didn’t try the Refosco until last night but I am pleased to say that we really enjoyed it. I would therefore like to purchase another 12 bottles!” - Mr. I. C.

“We had some of the Refosco last night, love it!” - Mr M.A.

“Just wanted to say, we are really enjoying the Refosco, delightfully fruity and (too) easy to drink! “ - Mr. H.S.

This is a sensual, fluid, elegant beauty, which spent 6 whole years in oak before being released! It’s made from the Corvina grape, most commonly associated with Amarone, but this is much lighter and drier in style, yet still wonderfully succulent, with lots of light, red berry fruits mingling with the lovely tertiary flavours of leather, tobacco and autumnal woodiness. I enjoy making a fool out of myself, so I would love to be given this ‘blind’, as I would probably think it was a German Pinot Noir or a Jura Trousseau. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2028

Certified organic.

Customer Comments:

“Beautifully balanced wine that feels to be just approaching its peak. a light, bright and extremely quaffable glass of Italian autumn fruits that, as I write, is proving a heavenly partner with a cassoulet" - Mr. K.A.

A few years ago, Marchesi di Gresy’s new winemaker was familiarising himself with the cellar and found a few large casks full of red wine that weren’t due to be bottled. Asking his predecessor what they were, he learned that they contained Merlot from vintages dating back several years, which they couldn’t sell, because the film ‘Sideways’ had done a hatchet job on the grape variety and demand had evaporated for anything that mentioned the M-word on the label (the wine was due to be called ‘Solomerlot’). On tasting the contents of the barrels (the wines having by now spent a luxurious few years mellowing in oak), he was sideswiped by the quality and suggested that it could be labelled under the Monferrato Rosso appellation, which permits the use of Merlot without allowing it to be mentioned on the bottle, and the wine finally left the cellar, making its way onto the shelves of canny wine merchants, albeit in disguise, like the women dressed as men in Monty Python’s ‘Life of Brian’ (“there aren’t any Merlots here are there?”).

Marchesi di Gresy is one of the most respected estates in Piedmont. We’ve been fans of their Babarescos for many years, but you need deep pockets, so this Monferrato Rosso was a seriously exciting new discovery for us and we think it’s remarkably undervalued, because it’s pretty serious! Like another of Italy’s most lauded wines, Masseto, it is made entirely from Merlot, grown in Marchesi di Gresy’s ‘Monte Aribaldo’ vineyard. It would make more economic sense to grub it up and plant Nebbiolo, but the owner is adamant that the quality of the Merlot here is of the very highest calibre. According to the winery, it has only recently been released to the UK market, because it was purposefully being matured at Marchesi di Gresy’s cellars until ready to drink. It was matured for a year in old French oak barriques followed by more than 2 years in Slavonian oak casks before being cellared and allowed to rest.

The classic, elegant label instils an immediate sense of confidence, but it’s not just a façade, the interior decoration is even more beautiful. The wine sparkles with layers of sweetly-perfumed fruit (fleshy plums, shiny cherries, scented damsons) intermingled with woody spices from the new oak graced by blackcurrant leaf and notes of forest floor and shoe polish. It’s an expressive and seductive wine that lights up your palate with a sense of vibrant energy combining northern Italian high-toned fruit with the finely-woven, velvety tannins of a great Saint-Émilion. Complex and distinctly Italian, this red has tons of class and luxury about it. A gorgeous drop from an outstanding vintage! 14% alc. Drink now-2032.

Press review:

JancisRobinson.com (previous vintage): “Deep, ripe blackcurrant aroma streaked with the bite of green herbs and bitters. If I didn’t have the bottle in front of me, I’d have thought this was claret, and double the price. Dignified and classy and restrained… Except that, as it opens, there is flair, a stubborn indignation in the tannins and the gleam of well-polished church pew (generations of virtuous derrieres as well as generations of virtuous cleaning ladies) that is distinctly Italian. Merlot’s classic clipped-box-leaf framework shapes dark fruit with a wicked glint in its eye. If you don’t feel like shelling out £50 for a Bordeaux, but want a classy claret character, this might just be your baby. GV (TC). Drink 2022-2028.” 16.5 points

Customer comments (including previous vintages)

"It's a HIT!" - Mr C.F.

"This was delicious!" - Mr. J.P.

”Superb!” - Mr. B.W.

“Terre Nere continues to raise the bar with their Etna Rosso.” - Vinous

A delicious and characterful Nerello Mascalese from the northern slopes of Mount Etna, which articulates its origins as eloquently as a Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon or a Northern Rhone Syrah articulate theirs. The aromas are classic Etna Rosso, a heady cocktail of shiny red fruits, peach fuzz, raspberry and pumice stone. That volcanic minerality brings a slight tannic austerity to the fruit and a suggestion of smooth grey pebbles, but it’s not drying, because the fruit is ample, so you sense the pit as well as the cherry, the stone as well as the plum. 14% alc. Organic (certified). Drink now-2030.

Organic (certified)

Press review:

Vinous (previous vintage): “The 2023 Etna Rosso seduces with a burst of ripe cherries, cloves and sweet rose aromas. This is an energetic and wickedly fresh effort with a cascade of wild berry fruit and crunchy mineral tones that flow beneath an air of violet inner florals. A coating of fine tannins frames the finish without slowing its momentum as this tapers off with amazing length and a saturation of raspberry. The 2023 aims to please. Drink now-2029” 92 points

“Gleaming with concentration… lustrous… magnificent.” - Tamlyn Currin for JancisRobinson.com, 17 points

One of our most exciting recent discoveries. It’s a lavish, unmistakeably Italian blend, led by Barbera with the additions of Bonarda, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, made in the style of a traditional ‘Riserva’. It’s deep and plush in both colour and fruit weight, high-toned and glossy from the Barbera, unfiltered to keep all the goodness in, and saturated in inky cassis richness and wood-polish top notes and tastes as if the barrels soaked up the wine like a sponge and then gave back this masterpiece! At 10 years of age, it is still vibrantly fruit-rich, but dark and stormy too, a little fuzzy and unkempt, as if it has just got out of bed after a 10-year slumber. We left a bottle open for a whole week and it tasted even better on Day #7 than on Day #1, so do consider decanting it.

The word ‘Riserva’ gets bandied around a lot in Italy (often meaninglessly in my opinion, especially with Brunello di Montalcino), but this is a what a true ‘Riserva’ should be, a selection of the best grapes on the estate, aged for a long time in traditional, large oak casks to bring the wine together ready for drinking on release.

We went to visit Il Maiolo a couple of months ago and tasted a raft of vintages going back to 2003 and the quality is exceptionally high, year in, year out, and always very reflective of the year, and as anyone with an interest in Italian wine will know, 2015 is widely regarded as one of the greatest vintages in recent memory.

We hope this wine will become a permanent feature on our lists in future vintages. It has that wonderful combination of richness, vitality, heart-on-sleeve joyfulness, autumnal age and detailed complexity. As with almost all Italian reds, it is best enjoyed with food, especially game, braised or roast meats or just some thinly-sliced local Parma ham or tagliatelle al ragu bolognese. 14% alc. Decant for aeration and sediment. Organic (certified). Biodynamic. Drink now-2036.

Press review:

JancisRobinson.com: “Sombre richness, gleaming with concentration and deep, high-back, solid curves; like an antique church pew polished to dark lustre by generations of pious prayer and petition. Tannins as tense, commanding and lustrous as organ pipes rumbling bass hymns over ancient flagstones and dust. Leather and iron. Blackberry and prune. Magnificent and, judging by Walter's tasting note of the 2004 last year, it still has a long road ahead of it. (TC). Drink now-2035.” 17 points

Customer comments:

“We had a bottle of this on Sunday night with some friends and we all thought it was excellent. Do you have any more knocking around please?” - Mr B.M.

“My wife and I were quite astonished when we tried a bottle of this last night and so we wondered if you happened to have another half dozen still available?” - Mr A.D.

“I can only say one thing and that is : WOW! We had a friend round for dinner last night so I did as you suggested and decanted the wine just after you delivered it. By the time we sat down to eat around 8.30 it was absolutely delicious. I was blown away. Unfortunately I won’t be able to test your ‘it’s even better after being open for a week’ advice because I don’t think it lasted even an hour - but it was very very much enjoyed.” - Ms C.J.

“We enjoyed the Il Maiolo. I did prefer the 2004, but my budget this time will only stretch to the 2015!” - Mr A.B.

“All the hype about this wine is more than deserved..... absolutely stunning! We opened it last night, and will follow it along for a few days - assuming that we can resist finishing it much sooner! Would you be able to let me have another 6 bottles?” - Mr. R. H.

“I’ve recently been enjoying the Il Maiolo.” - Mr C.M.

“It is such a lovely wine..... we had it for Christmas day luncheon, and again last week. It has become a little softer in the intervening period, and if anything, more delightfuI.” - Mr. R.H.

“A wine that strums my heartstrings.” - Tamlyn Currin for JancisRobinson.com

This is a terrific wine from Marco de Grazia of Tenuta delle Terre Nere, who, in 2006, was offered two small parcels on Mount Etna in the crus of Feudo di Mezzo and Moganazzi, which were too small to blend into Terre Nerre’s cuvees, and so this project was born, named after his daughter, Eli, whose crayon drawings have adorned the labels ever since, changing each year as she grows up. It has the gorgeous aromas that we look for in proper Etna Rosso, with that telltale note of peach fuzz and apricot skin, as well as dried cherries and whetstone, plumped up on the palate by sweeter flavours of pomegranate and wild strawberry. 13% alc. 12 months on 20% new oak. Drink now-2027.

Press review:

JancisRobinson.com: “Licking terracotta tiles on a hot summer day after a thunderstorm; eating small red cherries fallen onto an old, crumbling stone wall; pomegranate seeds crushed between rough concrete. Transparent as stained glass, rugged as weathered brick. Incense and under-log earthy; crushed radicchio and soft triangles and columbine-scented five-pointed stars of flavour of earth and flower and root and fruit and stone. A wine that strums my heartstrings… (TC). Drink now-2027.“ 17.5 points

Customer comment:

“I have popped the Etna Rosso La Vigne di Eli and have to say it’s lovely, light, refreshing and invigorating in equal measure, and your tasting note is absolutely spot on.” - Mr A.H.

Azienda Agricola Roberto Voerzio are a slightly mysterious outfit, as they don’t allow visitors. Even Monica Larner, who writes the Italian reports for ‘The Wine Advocate’, was obliged to buy bottles from the local enoteca in order to review them. So, whenever we receive an allocation of the Voerzio wines, we feel as if we have entered the secretive ‘inner sanctum’ of the wine trade (don’t panic, Q-Anon followers, there were no ritual sacrifices). Their Barbera d’Alba ‘Il Cerreto’ 2020 is a truly delicious, full-bodied expression of this noble, northern Italian grape variety, bursting with plump, exuberant fruit flavours and the heady high-tones that sing “Piedmont” with every note. In the bass clef you will find black cherry, cassis and red-fleshed plums, while in the treble you will find wood polish, fresh sage and even a falsetto note of orange peel. Drink with agnolotti del plin or slow-braised lamb ragu with cavatelli. 14% alc. Drink now-2032.

Press review:

Jancis Robinson MW (previous vintage): “Real edge to this, but without obvious oak. Very smooth tannins. Marked acidity. Truly varietal. (JR)” 16 points

We’ve been looking for a wine like this for a long time, a northern Italian red with seriously sexy fruit and by ‘sexy’, we mean hedonistic, opulent and seductive and by ‘seriously’ we mean structured, rich and true to the region. It’s the ying-yang combination of those two features, which make this wine so utterly beguiling, the ‘sexy’ high-toned, sweet-plum and hibiscus flavours underpinned by a skein of ripe, yet ‘serious’ tannins and Barbera’s whiplash natural acidity to give the wine structural integrity, otherwise it would collapse under the weight of its own beauty. If you want your guests to finish every sip with “Oh wow!” then this wine belongs on your dinner table. 14.5% alc. Drink now-2030.

PS I’m having another glass of this now, later the same night, and it’s really quite fabulous. There are Barolo and Barbaresco flavours swirling around here, but immersed in the richness that comes with Barbera, so there’s none of the astringency associated with Nebbiolo, just luscious black cherry acidity piercing through kola, orange and cinnamon.

Organic (non-certified)

“Might well be the best red wine I have tasted all year.” - Walter Speller, Italian editor for Jancis Robinson’s website

When I tasted this wine recently and was told that it was produced in 2004, I was astonished. Not just because the wine was in such great shape, but because I hadn’t fully appreciated that 2004 was 21 years ago! The wine itself certainly felt ‘mature’, showing some lovely tertiary aromas of worn leather and autumn leaves, fading gently into old age, but there was still so much rich and glowing fruit that it felt more like a wine with only a decade under its belt, not one that was produced in the year of the ‘Friends’ finale or the year that Facebook was launched.

It’s a real privilege to drink a wine like this, made with the healthiest, organically-grown grapes (a blend of Barbera, Bonarda, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot), because it shows how the efforts undertaken in the vineyard can produce such wonderful experiences downstream. It’s rich and supple, ”bursting with energy” (as Walter Speller notes), with flavours that evoke damsons steeped in cherry juice and shavings of orange peel. The plush, purple plum and black cherry notes, which would have dominated the wine in its youth, are now turning towards flavours that evoke a sunlit walk through the woods in autumn time, with suggestions of wild forest berries, golden leaves, cassis and woody bark. It’s a grand wine, deserving of your best wide-bowled glasses, to be enjoyed with a meal that took a lot of effort to prepare, much like the wine. Try it with beef wellington, roast venison with red wine and juniper sauce or a rack of lamb.

We shipped this wine in May 2024 directly from the estate, where it has been lying in their cold cellars since it was bottled in 2010. Wild yeast fermentation, 60 days on the skins. Aged for 6 years in large 50h/l oak barrels. 14% alc. Drink now-2029.

Organic (certified). Biodynamic.

“It is the perfect example of Il Maiolo’s philosophy which centres around taking time and not rushing anything. I am still stunned just thinking of this wine.” - Walter Speller

Press review:

JancisRobinson.com (Walter Speller): “Impenetrable dark ruby with orange tinges. Impressive, deep, complex nose for this 20-year-old wine. Sour cherry with notes of damson, cassis, blackberry and horse saddle. Hints of undergrowth and tobacco leaf and iron. Succulent, deep cherry fruit with supple acidity and silky tannins. Energetic, long and lifted and now at its peak. Amazing nose and depth. A stunning wine. Drink now-2030.” 17.5 points

A note on the winemaking

Winemaker, Francesco Torre, is adamant that wild yeast fermentation (where the fermentation is initiated by the yeasts found on the skins of the grapes and/or in the winery) brings out the best in his wine, allowing it to take its own natural course, and he eschews the chemical tweaks that commercial winemakers use during élevage to stabilise and, one could argue, neutralise the final outcome. He accepts that it is “a longer, more tortuous road, certainly more risky but, based on the experience gained in recent years, it’s the only way to hope to obtain a truly great wine, capable of expressing all of its complexity, longevity and authentic personality and not just a story trivially told.”

Customer comments:

“The Il Maiole went down a storm and delivered everything I had hoped it would - decanted as you suggested about half an hour before pouring and in the glass it had wonderful cherry aromas mingled with earthy black truffle - and then broadened so much on the palate - stunningly good and credit to you guys for sourcing it and listing it, bravo!” - Mr. A. B.

"How can a wine this serious be this much fun?" - Tamlyn Currin, for JancisRobinson.com

When Barbera is on song, it's one of the most glorious of Italian wines, a full-bodied, lustrous red with naturally high acidity counterpoised by plush, rich, brambly fruit, but the problem for Barbera's image and reputation is that very few winemakers manage to get that balance right. Aldo Conterno and his 3 sons have been working with Barbera since 1969 and have, to put no finer point on it, nailed it. I don't think I've ever described a wine as 'posh' before, but their 'Conca Tre Pile' 2020 gives that impression; it has the feel of royal purple velvet, with its plush, autumnal fruits, a sprinkle of spice (posh spice, of course) and high-toned notes of frankincense, kola and purple flowers. 14.5% alc. Drink now-2036

Press review:

Jamie Goode: “Rich bold warm and spicy. Dense and ripe with a lovely spicy, rounded personality with a sour cherry finish.” 92 points

Jancis Robinson MW: “Very lively and fresh without any excess. Just nicely balanced and fun to drink. What more does one want?” 16.5 points

Argiano’s ‘Solengo’ might just be the last of the affordable SuperTuscans. Deep and inky in colour, the 2019 is a rich and opulent blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Syrah and Merlot, which stains the palate in sweet black fruits haunted by ethereal notes of sandalwood, soft tobacco leaf, vanilla and sweet spices. It’s like Chateau Palmer in sunglasses, returning from a summer holiday in Tuscany. Drink now for up-front exuberance and show-stopping intensity or wait 5 or 6 years and drink from 2027 onwards for a more subtle and mellow experience. 14% alc.

Organically farmed

Press review:

Vinous: “The 2019 Solengo seduces with its richly decadent display of vanilla and mocha-tinged dark fruits and spices, which are wonderfully lifted by minty herbal tones and white smoke. This enters the palate like weighted velvet, smooth and fleshy at first, yet lively, as mineral-tinged black currants mix with fine-grained tannins, clamping down with youthful poise. Like the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove, this tapers off incredibly long and staining, with echoes of liquorice beneath an air of cedar and tobacco; yet somehow, through it all, the palate is left watering for more. It will be many years before the 2019 is ready to show its best, but it will certainly be worth the wait. The Solengo is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Sangiovese that spends eighteen months refining in a combination of 60% new to 40% second-pass barriques. Drink 2026-2039.” 96 points

The reason we love Flaccianello is because it takes Sangiovese to church! The Flaccianello 2018, which garnered the famous 100 points from The Wine Advocate, is not only spectacular in youth, but has the ability to age for two decades or more. It's one of the most glorious expressions of Sangiovese you will ever try, a gloriously plush and opulent wine. Drink 2025-2045.

Press reviews:

Vinous: "The 2018 Flaccianello della Pieve is another stellar wine from Fontodi. It is the richest Flaccianello ever made (in terms of dry extract), with elevated acidity that trails the 2016 by just a touch, but it does not taste like that at all. Dark cherry, violet, lavender, spice, mocha and graphite build with a bit of time in the glass. The 2018 Flaccianello is not a wine of size, as in most previous years, but rather a wine that exudes vibrancy, energy and class from start to finish. I absolutely loved it. Drink 2020-2050." 100 points

MAXIMUM 3 BOTTLES PER ORDER. UK MAINLAND DELIVERY ONLY. MUST BE PART OF AN ORDER THAT MEETS OUR MINIMUM REQUIREMENT OF 6 BOTTLES.

“It’s pretty exceptional for a Barolo Classico” - JancisRobinson.com

A Barolo with joy in its heart. Pour it into a wide-bowled glass to help release its beautiful high-toned aromas of sweet cherry, loose tea, crushed rose petals and hedgerow syrup, deepened by hints of spice, cedar and that subtle Barolo smokiness. The 2020 vintage brings an extra glide of fruit and approachability, but make no mistake—this is still a wine with classic Barolo architecture, built on taut Nebbiolo tannins that fan out like origami. Sweet, fragrant woody notes from the tight-grained French oak weave seamlessly with the concentrated Nebbiolo fruit, which is lithe and lissom. A wine that grows in every sip. Organic. 14% alc. Drink now – 2032.

Press Review:

JancisRobinson.com: “Barolo. Palish ruby. A little dusty and closed at first, with notes of sweet raspberry. Sappy, minerally raspberry fruit with a layer of fine, long-lasting tannins complementing the fruit. Long and focused. As soon as it is released grab a couple of bottles because it’s pretty exceptional for a Barolo Classico (calling it ‘entry level’ wouldn’t do it justice). (Walter Speller)” 17.5 points

"Could well be the best Vigna del Sorbo ever released." - JancisRobinson.com

“An absolute stunner.” – Vinous

“Sheer beauty.”– The Wine Advocate

“A thoroughbred.” - Decanter

Reviews:

JancisRobinson.com: “Deep ruby with the beginning of orange tinges. Lifted and perfumed and at the same time displaying brooding cherry fruit. Lush, juicy fruit, mouth-filling but maintaining effortlessly a certain elegance. Long gravelly tannins and juicy fruit on the finish. Could well be the best Vigna del Sorbo ever released. (WS). 14.5% alc. Drink 2026-2036.” 18 points

The Wine Advocate: “Now boasting the proud Panzano UGA on the front label, the Fontodi 2021 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Panzano Vigna del Sorbo is a little more delicate, even subdued, compared to its new brother, the more exuberant Terrazze San Leonlino. Vigna del Sorbo is a little more tuned in on itself, aromatically speaking, but reveals just enough complexity and sheer beauty to believe in the promise of its future aging potential. Even now, tasted so young, the wine's pedigree is evident. It excels in terms of complexity and depth. The tannins are velvety soft, and soft mineral aromas add focus. This certified expression of Sangiovese comes from a single parcel within the sun-drenched Conca d'Oro basin of vines that distinguishes Panzano. The Vigna del Sorbo stands out as one of my favourite wines from this region made in 2021. Drink now-2050.” 98+ points

Vinous: “The 2021 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo is an absolute stunner. Deep, layered and explosive, the 2021 captures all of the magic of this year in spades. Black cherry, lavender, mocha, spice and licorice all soar out of the glass. A wine of statuesque beauty elegance, the 2021 is utterly mesmerizing. I would be in no rush to drink this. The 2021 spent 14-15 months in barrique (25% new) and then 7-8 months in cask. 2028-2046.” 97 points

Decanter: “Fontodi’s Vigna del Sorbo is one of the classic sites of the Conca d’Oro, which produces wines with the body and phenolic ripeness associated with Panzano, but which also retain a vein of freshness thanks to the southwest-facing aspect. This 2021 has a typically earthy nose, a compact, concentrated palate, and a very satisfyingly grippy finish with a return of ripe dark fruit. The tannins need a little time to loosen up, but this is a thoroughbred.” 95 points

Decanter: “The Sorbo vineyard sits just below the winery on schistous Galestro soil between 400 and 450 metres and boasts 50- to 60-year-old vines. Owner Giovanni Manetti says it is the same team that has harvested this plot for years. The 2021 spent 15 months in barriques followed by nine in large casks, and unfurls leisurely from a smoky incense overlay through dusty, sunbaked earth to black cherry. Virile and sturdy, the palate packs in dense fruit, glimpses of clove and cedar, and pops with blackcurrant purity. A clayey, terracotta-like texture accompanies generous chewy tannins. Plenty here for a long rest in the cellar.” 97 points

James Suckling: “Wow. There’s a richness and decadence to this, with cherry, orange peel, stone and terra cotta notes as well as crushed stone and cedar. It’s medium-bodied with a solid core of fruit and a very long, lingering finish. Extremely structured. From organically grown grapes. Try after 2026.” 97 points

Wine Spectator: “Saturated with black cherry, blackberry, violet and graphite flavors, this fluid, elegant red is defined by vibrant acidity, with a light matrix of fine-grained tannins. Balanced and fresh on the fruit-filled aftertaste. Decant now, or give this a year or two in the cellar. Best from 2026 through 2045.” 97 points

"A new reference point for Merlot in Italy." - James Sucking, 100 points

The Galatrona 2022 has just received this perfect 100-point review from James Suckling...

James Suckling: "The floral aromas are spellbinding, with aromas of violets, lilacs, orange peel, raspberries, rose petals, and some oranges. It’s medium- to full-bodied with crunchy and open-grain tannins that are creamy and caressing. It’s endless in the finish. Crunchy and energetic. A wine that is thoughtful and gives you such great pleasure. Such purity. It’s like eating perfectly ripened grape must. Pure Merlot. Drinkable in many ways, but will come together beautifully. A new reference point for Merlot in Italy. Drink after 2028." 100 points

..... but in the interests of balance, we feel obliged to also include this damning 97-point review...

Decanter: "The very promising 2022 has great freshness on the nose, where wild berries vie with savoury mineral notes and hints of aromatic herbs. The impact of the fruit on the palate is intense but in perfect balance, the tannins are super-fine, and the finish infinitely long and impeccably precise. Current owner Luca Sanjust inherited Petrolo from his mother Lucia who, with the early guidance of legendary master taster Giulio Gambelli, established a production of outstanding quality in what was at the time the little known backwater of the Colli Aretini. Merlot has been a feature of the production since the 1980s, and on the clay soils of the Galatrona vineyard on the cooler left bank of the Arno river, the variety gives wines with bright, succulent fruit and extreme elegance in a style which sets them apart from the Merlots of the Tuscan coast. Pure class." 97 points