Spain

The trouble with discovering a predilection for something is that you quickly become picky and that’s what has happened to us with Albariño. First there was the infatuation, when we rushed headlong towards anything that said Albariño on the label, then came the disillusionment, as we discovered that some Albariños were better than others, and finally came the nitpicking, as we refused to settle for ones that were too light or too astringent or too vegetal or too short or who still lived with their parents. It would take a real beauty to turn our heads and that’s what happened here.

The Attis ‘Lias Finas’ 2024 reminds us why we fell in love with Albariño in the first place. It pours a bright, fresh, silver-lemon colour with a hint of green at the edge , and is dry yet full of succulent, juicy fruit, glistening with grapefruit, apricot, white peach, chalk dust and salt flakes. ‘Lias Finas’ means ‘fine lees’ and indicates that the wine was aged on its lees for 6 months (25% of which was in large oak foudres), giving the wine extra body and richness. Swoon. 13% alc. Drink now-2029.

Press review:

Vinous: "The 2024 Albariño Las Finas is from Meano, Val do Salnes, Rias Baixas. This has attractive aromas of peach, lychee, jasmine, herbs and mint. It is dry, medium-bodied and slightly creamy in texture. This gains freshness on the palate, defining a complete profile. The 2024 is a well-made, nuanced Salnes Albariño. Drink 2025 - 2035.” 94 points

Tim Atkin: “Racy, crunchy expression of Val do Salnés Albariño with layers of citrus and macadamia nut and a textured mid palate. Drink now-2028.” 92 points

Jancis Robinson MW (previous vintage): “Really lifted, marine, appetising nose. Savoury, saline finish. Lots to get your teeth into. Drink now-2027.” 16.5 points

Customer Comments:

“Magnificent!” - Mr. D. T.

“I’m m in love. Please may I have a another half case?” - Mrs. V. J.

Cool, classy and sophisticated, but enough about me, let’s talk about the wine. I really like the way this delivers a hatful of fruit in a very controlled, linear, focused way. The Godello ripened perfectly in 2022, thanks to the warm vintage in Bierzo, which allowed Raul Perez to channel all its energy and flavour without the need for the cosmetic effects of new oak, so you have a wine that is concentrated, saline, mineral and age-worthy. A quirky, Atlantic Chablis if you will. You won’t? Fair enough. 13.5% alc. Organically farmed. Drink now-2029.

Press review:

Tim Atkin MW: "Textured and nuanced, La del Vivo is a Godello with serious personality. Delicate chamomile and honey aromas lead to ripe apricot and peach syrup with a little bitter almond and a touch of white pepper. It takes time to open up but then reveals a fantastically chalky palate and just a little woody spice from 12 months in large oak vats. Should continue to develop further over the coming years. Drink now-2028." 95 points

The Wine Advocate: “The white 2022 La Vizcaína La del Vivo comes from vines they own, all fermented without temperature control and never racked. It has a serious and austere nose that makes me think of a cooler year. There is good ripeness, and the wine achieved 13.5% alcohol but has very good freshness and acidity. It has notes of white flowers, fruit, spices and herbs and is complex, nuanced and elegant. It has a chalky palate with very fresh and clean flavors. Drink 2022-2032.” 95 points

JancisRobinson.com (previous vintage): “Freshness and predominantly water pear. Very pleasant and consistent style. Lightness, salinity, and all very well placed. It is a wine of finesse that seeks a more mineral expression of Godello, less opulent, playing with softness and delicacy. Great work. Drink now-2028.” 17 points

Customer comments:

“On first opening it may not smack you in the face, but freshness, zip and zing are apparent straight away and different characteristics emerge with each glass. Salinity? Tick. Minerality? Tick. A citrus streak? Tick. Fine mouthfeel? Tick. The structure to age? Tick.” - Mr T.M.

A super-stylish Albariño from Spain’s Atlantic coast, comporting itself with such grace and refinement that you almost feel the need to curtsey. The balance is immaculate and the texture is ethereal with light brushstrokes of sweet citrus, nashi pear, grapefruit and wet chalk and a gentle saline minerality that brings a moreish quality to the lemony finish. The perfect white wine to refresh the palate and stimulate the mind (or is it vice versa?). 12.5% alc. Drink now-2029.

Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “The 2023 Cíes is the white village wine from Meaño, from different vineyards, and it is elegant and subtle, insinuating and detailed. It fermented and matured in barrels of different sizes where it matured for six months. It has moderate ripeness and 12.5% alcohol with very good freshness and acidity, which makes it vibrant and pungent, with saline flavours and a super tasty finish. It is sharp, precise and mineral. Drink now-2031.” 95 points

Jamie Goode: “Lovely tension with a slight saltiness to the tight citrus fruit, and also a hint of apricot richness. Really detailed and engaging.” 93 points

This really is one of the great bargains in the whole world of wine. A nigh-on decade-old, oak-aged and bottle-aged white Rioja from one of the most legendary estates in Spain, founded in 1877. It's bold, rich, tangy, oaky and magnificent, with flavours of beeswax, verbena, hazelnut and camomile. 100% Viura, sourced from the Gravonia vineyard in Rioja Alta aged for 4 years in large American oak foudres.

Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “2016 was a superb vintage in Rioja, and the 2016 Viña Gravonia Blanco, which has the cellar aroma that all the wines, especially the whites, have, due to the longer time the wines spend in barrel. The white vines in this vineyard are now 92 years old and their juice was fermented in old oak vats with indigenous yeasts. They explained, "We have never used selected yeasts." It was matured in their well-seasoned American oak barrels for four years. It's paler than any of the other whites, and it has a little less pungency, with very good freshness. It's elegant, subtle, clean and ethereal. Drink now-2032.” 95 points

Vinous: "Whites from Lopez de Heredia are legendary, and Viña Gravonia rightfully earns its place in the pantheon. The 2016 Blanco Crianza Viña Gravonia, 100% Viura sourced from the Gravonia vineyard in Rioja Alta, underwent four years of aging on old foudres followed by an additional four years in bottle. This yellow wine, with a subtle, golden sheen features aromas of peach and fennel, accompanied by a floral tea note and a delicate layer of oak. Dry and refreshing, it possesses a bold texture. This flavourful white lingers on the palate with a hazelnut tone. Drink now-2036." 93 points

“Enric Soler is a specialist in Xarello, possibly the finest producer of this grape in the world!” - The Wine Advocate

Enric is something of a legend within the Catalonian wine scene, having established the Barcelona Wine Academy in the 1990s, where winemakers from all over Catalonia would show up to share ideas and seek advice. As well as this, he also worked in some of Spain's top restaurants and was crowned Spain's 'champion sommelier' in 1997. He then turned his hand to winemaking in 2004 after his grandfather passed away, leaving him the vineyards he had planted in 1945, and Enric now farms them organically and biodynamically, focusing on just one grape variety, Xarello. When we told another Catalonian winemaker that we were Enric’s UK importer, he was mightily impressed, which he thought best to illustrate by showing us a photograph of his dog, a dachshund, called Enric.

Enric's Xarello ‘Improvisacio’ 2023 is a fabulous rendition of this often-underrated variety and it plays like a clean guitar chord with no clumsy fingers muffling the strings, instead pressing down firmly on the frets: acidity, ripeness, concentration, varietal expression and length. Cool stone-fruits, orange blossom honey, sour pineapple and a raw almond feature subtly on the palate of this super stylish white. If you need a thumbnail sketch, imagine a Chablis made from lees-aged Albariño: cool, incisive, electric.

The grapes were sourced from an organically-farmed 1.3 hectare vineyard with vines between 45 and 65 years of age. It was fermented and aged for 8 months in Stockinger barrels and concrete eggs and only indigenous yeasts were used. If you like the ‘Louro’ Godello by Rafael Palacios, then this will be right in your wheelhouse. Whatever that means. 12.5% alc. 6,240 bottles produced. Biodynamically farmed. Drink now-2030.

Press reviews:

Tamlyn Currin for Jancis Robinson.com: “This might be the richest and least monastic vintage of Improvisació that I have tasted – although that’s not to say it isn’t, still, a cathedral carved from citrine and rock salt. It’s always been a wine that rewards sipping slowly and empirically over several days – like any broad, dramatic landscape shaped by micro iota, it’s the adjacency of the immense and the minute that creates the most thrilling shifts. It was fascinating to see how the flavours and structure deepened in tone and timbre over five days, but also how they intensified and then receding, one day flattening to blades and planes and certainty, the next arching and clenching into fists and whorls. The nose is, as always, smoky, but here and there glimmers of fennel pollen and lemon-balm flowers. The biggest difference for me is on the palate – ripe apricots every time I taste it. But being Xarello, it is a tidal wine. And some days it seems to dissolve in the mouth like an aspirin, changing from stevia-like sweetness to medicinal bitterness to bitter citrus to citrus sweetness. And then, another time, it tastes like white peaches behind a veil of salt. And then it twists back into bitterness, but this time with the fragrant tension and oily fragrance of lemon-peel oil. The length of the wine is unbelievable. You can still taste it 10 minutes later. Best when it’s not too cold. Best when it’s been open five days. Best with a great book, towering conversation, or silence. Drink now-2038.” 17.5 points

Tim Atkin MW: “Lemon pith, fennel, freshly cut grass and a tight, toastiness on the nose; subtle, but the intensity is there on the palate, driven by a core of vibrant acidity. Another fantastic Improvisacio. Drink now-2034.” 94 points

 The Wine Advocate: “The 2023 Improvisació is Xarello from three plots that total 1.3 hectares. It fermented and matured in Austrian oak vats and concrete eggs for nine months and is possibly the wine with more impact from the vintage. Every year, the colour of the label changes, and in 2023, it is a pale orange. The nose is still a little spicy, denoting youth and the effect of the élevage. But the wine is harmonious and complex and should be wonderful with a little more time in bottle. It comes in at 12.5% alcohol. It finishes chalky, dry and tasty. 6,240 bottles produced. Drink now-2031.” 93 points

Decanter (previous vintage): “One of Catalonia’s top white wine producers, Enric Soler has made a chalky, stony Xarello with fabulous energy. It comes from his two main parcels of 45- to 65-year-old vines in the Penedes, and is fermented and aged for eight months in Austrian Stockinger vats and concrete eggs. Lively citrus fruit drives this wine, while there is a hint of fennel that speaks to its Mediterranean origins. It is electric and taut, serious yet mouthwateringly moreish. Drink now-2029.“ 94 points

Customer reviews:

”I had a bottle last night - absolutely delicious!!” - Mr. M. G

“Absolutely fantastic.” - Mr S.C.

"Thank you for the prompt delivery of the wine ordered last week. The stand-out was the Improvisacio!" - Mr. D.R.

When I was an intern, I was sent on various fool’s errands that were jokes at my expense. I was asked to “Go over to maintenance and ask for a long weight,” or “Go to the hardware store and get a bubble for the spirit level,” or “Go to the paint shop and ask for a tin of tartan paint.” Well, folks, it’s time for me to get my own back! “Go and find a better Spanish white wine than this.” Ha ha! There isn’t one, you see! Not so funny now is it, Tommy McCluskey!?

Sorry… not sure what happened there…. This stunning Albariño comes from the cool, maritime region of Rias Baixas on the Atlantic coast of Galicia and was aged in large barrels made from chestnut, which was the traditional wood used in the area before oak became so ubiquitous. It's fantastically pure and vibrant, reverberating with citrus intensity, in the way a Grand Cru Chablis chins you with the sheer weight of its fruit, but it's complex too with struck flint, macadamia nut, lemon barley and subtle woody notes. The texture is sleek and polished with the acidity beautifully integrated into the pristine fruit and it finishes still bristling with energy and glints of saline minerality. You will never taste a better Spanish white wine, so don’t waste your time looking. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2034.

You could get into a barrel, fill it with lemons, rocks, gunpowder, grapefruit peel and oyster shells and get someone to roll you down the side of a volcano, but that's not my idea of a barrel of laughs and you get a very similar experience drinking this wine and far fewer abrasions. It's a pure, unfiltered Listan Blanco-dominated blend from the black, volcanic soils of Lanzarote and if you are familiar with our amazing 'Trenzado' from Tenerife, then you will recognise many similar characteristics, in particular that combination of struck flint, ocean breeze and intense citrus. I've probably scared away those who prefer their white wines to be understated and demure, but why not take walk through your discomfort zone and see what you think. 12.5% alc. Roughly half of the production was aged in 300 litre French oak and the rest in stainless steel. Drink now-2028.

Press review:

Tim Atkin MW: “Pablo Matallana is part of an exciting new generation of winemakers on Lanzarote, all of them working with traditional vineyards that are buried in holes to protect them from the Atlantic winds. This low-intervention blend of equal parts Listán Blanco, Malvasía Volcánica and Diego comes from centenary parcels in Juan Bello and Masdache and is appealingly salty and savoury, with layers of jasmine, blood orange and hot stones and a hint of black tea tannins. Drink now-2029.” 94 points

The Wine Advocate: “The 2022 Blanco was produced with grapes from Lanzarote with a blend of Malvasía, Listán Blanco and more Diego than in previous vintages. It's characterful, spicy, marine and mysterious, with a pale golden color and notes of sea breeze, aromatic herbs and flowers, and it has a dry and pungent palate with a stony feeling and a salty twist. It has a moderate 12.5% alcohol and 7.5 grams of acidity. The grapes come from old vines planted in holes on volcanic ash soils from Masdache, La Florida and Juan Bello. The juice from the full clusters fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, and 80% of the wine matured in used 300-litre barrels while the rest matured in stainless steel. 1,200 bottles were filled in July 2023.” 92 points

It’s hard to convey quite the chemistry that is going on within this bottle, the interplay of aromas, its unique personality. Your senses won’t know what’s hit them. Zesty citrus fruit, bitter lemon and lime tea swirl amidst wisps of honeycomb, truffle, camomile, smoke, roasted nuts, waxy apple, orange marmalade, salty sea air and the loveliest oxidised note. Having spent 6 years in oak prior to bottling, the aromas are remarkably fresh and concise and there is an amazing synergy of flavours. It’s dazzling, intriguing and marries decadence with a wonderful freshness and tangy acidity. On the palate it moves with momentum and grace and has a finish that develops and develops – ingeniously complex! 12.5% alc. Drink now-2035.

Made from 100% Viura and aged for as long as 6 years in old oak barrels, the winemaking techniques at Lopez de Heredia recall simpler, more honest times. They do not rush things. And the elevage, the rearing of wine from the finish of its ferment to when it's released from the cellar door, is every bit as important to them as the work in the vines to ensure the fruit is perfect. It is not so much an ageing as a nurturing, allowing the wine a long conversation with its old oak barrels, and further time to get used to its new home in bottle. It is only released when the family feels it is ready to drink, when it is at its peak. A peak that lasts some time, thanks to the care taken. This beautiful wine can be enjoyed over the next decade or more.

Reviews:

Tim Atkin MW: “Viña Tondonia is one of the world's great vineyards, producing superb reds as well as whites. After more than a decade in old American oak barrels and bottle, this is still remarkably fresh, bright and youthful. Made from Viura and 10% Malvasía it's a unique style that makes demands of the taster. Salty, dense, complex and slightly tannic, it has amazing extract, notes of lemon peel, fennel and tarragon and the concentration to age for at least another decade. Drink now-2040.” 97 points

The Wine Advocate (Luis Guttierez): "The 2014 Viña Tondonia Blanco Reserva has a bright golden color, almost fluorescent, a complex and nuanced nose reminiscent of the 2017 Viña Gravonia that I tasted next to it, toasty, smoky and spicy, with mushroom and earth, pollen and herbal tea notes, reminiscent of the aromas in their old caves. 2014 was not an easy vintage, and some wines were diluted because of the abundant rains before or during the harvest. This is the usual blend of Viura with 10% Malvasía Riojana from vines averaging 63 years of age on white soils with abundant rocks. It fermented in ancient oak vats with indigenous yeasts and matured for six years, probably more, in well-seasoned, neutral American oak barrels in their caves, which have a big effect on the wines (the longer the time in them, the longer the effect). It has 12.5% alcohol, a pH of 3.3 and 6.6 grams of acidity. It fills your mouth with pungent flavors, despite being medium-bodied and having an ethereal quality about it, and it's very long and tasty and finishes almost salty, with an umami feeling, dry and chalky. Delicious, clean and still young, it should age effortlessly. 18,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in December 2022. Drink 2025 - 2045." 96 points

EXTREMELY LIMITED. NOT AVAILABLE ON ITS OWN, MUST BE PART OF AN ORDER THAT MEETS OUR MINIMUM REQUIREMENT OF 6 BOTTLES. UK MAINLAND ONLY.

“Enric Soler is a specialist in Xarello, possibly the finest producer of this grape in the world!” - The Wine Advocate

“Utterly delicious.“ - Tim Atkin MW, 97 points

Enric Soler has all the necessary minerals to make great wine. He produces a range of daringly beautiful whites grown on soils with distinctly different mineral contents, where each vineyard imparts an elemental signature to the fruit. This pure Xarello is sourced from a biodynamically-farmed, single-hectare vineyard on ‘radical clay’, as Enric calls it, named ‘Espenyalluchs’. It underwent a wild yeast fermentation and spent 8 months in 4 and 5 year-old Burgundy barrels to harmonise the young wine without imparting any oak flavours.

The aromas are markedly mineral, with impressions of powdered stone and chalk dust, very pure and chiselled, and then a cascade of crystalline lemon and white nectarine that broadens as it reaches the open waters of your palate. If forced to pigeonhole it, I would file it in the same cabinet as white wines from the Loire, the driest Cape Chenins and bone dry Riesling or Albariño. Only 7 barrels were produced (2,670 bottles). 12.5% alc. Drink now-2030. Organic/ biodynamic.

Press review:

Tim Atkin MW: “Espenyalluchs is produced from a vineyard planted in 2010, using cuttings from Nun Vinya dels Taus. At 500m above sea level, this is high altitude plantings for Xarel·lo. Ripe lemon, white peach, flint and a subtle smokiness, this really comes alive on the palate with such precision and verve. Waxy, fresh and electric, this carries the herbal character of Xarel·lo into a long, savoury finish. Transparent and utterly delicious. Drink now-2034“ 97 points

Customer Comments:

”This was possibly the best still Xarel.lo I’ve ever had. Pithy and saline, lovely stuff. Bravo Enric Soler!” - Mr. A.R.

“Enric Soler is a specialist in Xarello, possibly the finest producer of this grape in the world!” - The Wine Advocate

“One of Catalunyas best white wines.” - Tim Atkin MW, 97 points

“This is stunning.” - The WIne Advocate, 96 points

We’re extremely proud to represent Enric Soler’s wines in the UK, one of the most revered winemakers in Catalonia. We could list his various achievements (Spain’s champion sommelier, founder of the Barcelona Wine Academy, leading exponent of biodynamic viticulture in Penedes), but the best illustration of the high esteem in which he is held came when we were talking to a young Catalan winemaker and we told him that we were Enric’s importer and he told us that he idolised him so much that he had named his dog after him. No higher praise needed.

This is Enric Soler’s ‘grand cru’, sourced from a tiny 0.7 hectare vineyard composed of Xarello vines planted in 1945. There’s a latent richness, but without any impression of excess fat, showing immaculate clarity of fruit, tantalising acidity, concentration and length. Imagine a flinty Grand Cru Chablis that spends its summer holidays by the Med and that goes some way towards conveying the spirit of this glorious wine with its flavours of wispy minerals, grapefruit, white flowers, pumpkin and a marine salinity that emerges on the finish. 100% organic/biodynamic farming. Only 7 barrels produced (2,935 bottles). 8 months in 300-litre Burgundy barrels (25% new) without batonnage (so as “not to make the wine dizzy", says Enric). 13% alc. Drink now-2032.

If you buy six it comes in a wooden case (NB I’m afraid we can only offer the 6-bottle wooden case for London delivery, as it’s too fragile to survive the rigours of the courier system. For deliveries outside London, we would need to repack it into ‘mailsafe’ cardboard boxes).

Organic/ biodynamic

Press reviews:

Tim Atkin MW: “Broader on the shoulder than Espenyalluchs; waxier and riper in style. Ripe orchard fruits, white peach, toasted hazelnuts and lemon peel on the nose. Driven, persistent and effortlessly long; the sort of wine that just oozes class. One of Catalunyas best white wines. Drink now-2040.” 97 points

The Wine Advocate: “The iconic 2023 Nun Vinya Dels Taus is a single-vineyard Xarel.lo from the first plot they started working, which took 20 years to recover, recovering the soils, working organically and biodynamically with the plants and animals in the vineyard and lowering the yield per plant in a plot that was used to produce base wine for sparkling wine. It's only 0.67 hectares, planted in 1945. After the soft pressing of the whole bunches, the must fermented with indigenous yeasts in 300-litre barrels, 20% of them new. It matured for nine months in new, second and third-use barrels from selected barrel makers in Burgundy with lees without being racked or doing bâtonnage. This is stunning. It displays a bright yellow colour, almost fluorescent and with some green tints. The nose is kaleidoscopic, detailed and nuanced but very subtle and elegant, clean and precise. The palate is even more precise and fresh, like laser cut, vibrant and pungent, long, tasty and dry, with a chalky finish. Drink now-2035.” 96 points

Customer reviews:

“Even though 2023 was another hot and dry year in the region, the wine does not show this, but is remarkably subtle and elegant. It has the typical richness, complexity, and harmony that Nun always has, but I think feels more graceful and elegant in the 2023, also with a bit more freshness than in some previous vintages, and definitely it is one of the best vintages of this wine. The characteristic flavours of the Xarel·lo grape are there as part of a complex spectrum, all with great purity and the harmony of the wines of Enric Soler.  It is excellent to drink now and will last for many years in the cellar.” - from Professor C.K., a Vin Cognito customer, who visited the winery in March 2025

“I recently had the pleasure of opening the bottle of Nun Vinya dels Taus I purchased last year and was absolutely blown away - it was truly exceptional” - Mr. A. B.

“First one opened and hugely impressed. A bit of Burgundy meets Sadie Family Chenin.” - Mr I.M.

I could spin you a yarn and tell you how I discovered this wine in a bar in Pamplona, after taking part in the ‘Running of the Bulls’, and how the barman poured me a glass and spilled some on my copy of ‘The Sun Also Rises’. In truth, I discovered it while helping to clear up after our ‘bring-a-bottle’ street party and noticed that there was a little bit left in the bottle, so I took a sneaky swig before popping the empty into a bin bag and thought, “Aye up! That’s decent!”. The next day, I asked the shipper for a sample and the fact that you are reading about it in this tasting-note is enough of a spoiler to tell you that my initial impressions weren’t wrong.

It’s a riotously joyful blend of Tempranillo, Syrah and Bobal, loaded with thorny, brambly, dark forest berries, laced through with some toothsome woody spice and a really juicy sour cherry acidity that brings it to life. Wines at this price can feel a bit ‘commercial’ and removed from any sense of place or tradition, but this feels local, handmade and pleasingly rough around the edges, like my copy of ‘The Sun Also Rises’, which I was reading when I discovered this wine. 14% alc. Drink now-2029.

Organic. Vegan friendly.

“Lots of fruit, structure and pizzazz! Who couldn’t like this?” - Jancis Robinson MW and ‘Wine of the Week’ (January 10th 2025)

A superb wine for the price and, without wishing to toot our own horn, the price is a reflection of our hard endeavours on your behalf, snooping around the outer creeks and tributaries of the wine trade for bargains. We found this wine at a quirky little event in London recently and were about to place an order, when the shipper contacted us saying that he could offer us a clearance price that would allow us to sell it for £14.95 if we took it all. Given that we were about to place an order anyway, when it would have retailed for £19.95, we dropped the gavel immediately!

It's a light, perfumed, medium-pale-coloured Garnacha (mostly) from vineyards in the Gredos Mountains, west of Madrid, where Garnacha takes on a much daintier, Pinot Noir-like personality than elsewhere in Spain or, indeed, France. That said, it is still packed with flavour, displaying cherry, sour plum and something slightly savoury (tomato consommé?), and it has a bit of gravitas too, with terracotta dust tannins, meaning it can stand up to food. 14% alc. Drink now-2028.

Press reviews:

Jancis Robinson MW: “Lots of fruit, structure and pizzazz! Who couldn’t like this? Lightly gamey with real personality. Very Good Value. Drink now-2028.” 16.5 points and ‘Wine of the Week’ January 2025

JancisRobinson.com (Tamlyn Currin): “Transparent in colour and still so remarkably fresh that it even tastes transparent. Tight tucked tartness bursting with character and flavour: sour plum, cherry tomato, tamarind and tomato vine, sumac. No sweetness, all twang. The tannins have an ochre-earth feel and ferrous drawl. It's mouth-watering and somehow both fine and rustic, both youthful and evolved. It was really lovely with super-thin slices of cold, very rare roast beef. A crazy price! If you love unshowy reds, you should snap this up. VGV. Drink now-2028.” 16.5 points

The Wine Advocate: “The red 2018 GR-10 Tinto contains a little less Cariñena and Syrah (10% and 20%, respectively) and, therefore, a little more Garnacha than the 2017 I tasted next to it. 2018 is a more complete vintage, with perfect ripening of the grapes, better yields and more balance in the wines. The fermentation and élevage were similar, with native yeasts, 90% full clusters and nine months in different sized barrels and a 4,200-litre oak vat. 2018 is clearly a great vintage, very complete, and the wines have more of everything: They are still young but are going to be superb, and you should wait on them while you drink your 2017s. This is like a more complete version of 2016, perhaps a vintage that is going to require more time. This is drinkable, but it's going to get better in bottle. It's ironic how in a great year the grapes are perfect, you work less, you get more wine and the result is better!” 92 points

A blend of Sumoll and Merlot, in which the Merlot provides the plump, plummy fruit while the Sumoll brings the gloss and acidity and hints of tamarind and smoky bacon. It’s inky in colour and fairly full-bodied, yet fresh and lively, dusted with sweet spices and a real sense of place. I’d even go so far as to say that it has a sense of grandeur, in that its flavours echo cross the palate. 13% alc. Drink now-2026. NB I took this to a BYOB restaurant and didn’t finish the bottle. I came back 3 weeks later and the waiter came over and said he had kept the wine in case I wanted to finish it. I didn’t want to dismiss his thoughtful gesture, so I gave it a try, expecting it to be vinegar, and it was still in great shape! I happily polished off the rest of the bottle.

Organic (certified)

This must surely be a candidate for one of the best value wines on the planet? A bold claim, but not only does it taste wonderful at this stage of its life, we have tasted various vintages of Senorio de Sarria’s Reserva from the mid-1990s and they are still in fantastic shape, especially the 1994. The colour alone is worth the price of admission, a deep, reassuringly concentrated dark crimson that speaks of ripe, happy grapes and a quick swirl of the glass releases bold, rich, sumptuous black fruit aromas laced with sophisticated notes of cigar-box, cedar, chocolate and blackcurrant leaf. If you are wondering why it is so inexpensive, it’s because we bought it at a bin-end price from a trusted supplier, who needed to move it on before the next vintage came in. No skullduggery, just a bit of carpe diem. 14.5% alc. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (90%) and Graciano (10%). Aged in French and American oak for 2 years. Drink now-2040.

Press review:

Tim Atkin MW: “Sarría’s Reserva continues to deliver an elegant, classic and fruit-driven aged red. This has evolved gracefully after seven years in bottle at time of tasting. Tannins are soft and gently caress red berry fruit, blueberry and spice. There are some earthy, mushroom notes that add depth, and a certain sweetness from the oak with a touch of chocolate and coffee. The blend of Cabernet and Graciano works well in this very Navarran red.” 92 points

“It's superb, and a really good value too.” - The Wine Advocate, 93 points

We enjoy testing proverbs to see if they can withstand rigorous analysis under experimental conditions, and so far, we have managed to disprove quite a few of their claims. We have observed numerous clouds without silver linings, we have gathered a wealth of evidence showing that laughter is not the best medicine and we found that every single pot reached boiling point regardless of whether it was being watched or not. We also tested the old saying, “You don’t always get what you pay for, but you never get what you don’t pay for” and this turned out to be the hardest nut to crack, but we finally did it, thanks to this wine. It gave us a singularly wonderful ‘fine wine’ experience, but without the associated price tag. At £16.95, it’s just remarkable value and Jancis Robinson and The Wine Advocate both agree (see below)!

In the glass, it looks like a Pinot Noir, as it’s morello cherry-red and translucent, but it leans back towards Spain in terms of flavour, with a lovely cold stone mineral aspect that enlivens it as much as the natural acidity and it puts you in mind of those Raul Perez wines from Bierzo, but there’s more fruit in the centre, it’s less edgy and nervy than those, so it’s not wholly dissimilar to a New Zealand Pinot Noir. 13.5% alc. 60% Bonicaire and 40% Monastrell. Drink now-2029. Vegan-friendly

Press reviews:

The Wine Advocate: “The 2022 La Lloma is their young red from old vines, a blend of 60% Bonicaire and 40% Monastrell from head-pruned vines planted in 1946 and 1979 that they took over six years ago and had to recover. The varieties fermented separately, the Bonicaire with 100% full clusters and carbonic maceration and the Monastrell with 30% full clusters, and then they aged separately in used 500-liter barrels for two months before being blended and put back in barrel for another four months. It has 13.56% alcohol and notable freshness and acidity, with a spectacular nose, perfumed, floral, fresh and elegant, and a medium-bodied palate, fine-boned, with chalky tannins and very good grip. It's superb, and a really good value too. Drink now-2029.” 93 points

JancisRobinson.com (Tamlyn Currin): “Someone told me once that I can’t write, ‘it smells like blood’ in a tasting note because that would put people off. Unless, I’d argue, you have a little bit of vampire in you. I do. I think. I like to suck the marrow out of bones. I like this scent in a wine, that is wild and dangerous and a little bit feral. It’s the smell of rusting iron on the hinges of an abandoned cellar door. It’s the smell of raw, rain-drenched earth on the edges of forests with humus-dense, red-earth-rich soils. It’s the scent and taste of a bitten lip. It’s the taste of the tang of wrought iron, cold and old and curled around windows and basement stairs in once-aristocratic Victorian mansions. It’s what his hands smell like when he’s been in the garden with a spade, for hours, in spring. It’s a vulnerable smell and it tastes like licking tears off someone’s cheek. Blood is beautiful. It’s crimson and it’s calligraphy. It’s the ink of life. It’s what this wine tastes like. Very Good Value. Drink now-2028.” 17 points

Customer comments:

"Just tasted the La Lloma and loved it!" - Mrs. G.H.

“Really like La Lloma. Great choice. Very much to our taste.” - Mr P.C.

“Had a bottle over the last 2 evenings and it was stunning, I reckon it would have been even better on day 3.  Great find, thanks!” - Mr N.J.

“I really enjoyed the La Lloma - great value I reckon!!” - Mr. A. T.

“Lovely, pure, graceful and fragrant.” - Decanter, 95 points

A brilliant value Mencia from the brilliant Telmo Rodriguez. It’s silky smooth, aromatic and oh-so very 21st Century in the way that it favours freshness and drinkability over oak-spice and weight. Lucia said that it reminded her of those high altitude Languedoc reds from the Terrasses du Larzac and she’s spot on, as it has delicacy yet richness of flavour, with similar core flavours of red-plum, vine tomato and cherry, highlighted by white pepper and grilled bacon fat. On the palate, it feels graceful, like a new world Pinot Noir, with some floral notes too, but finishes with a little pinch of tannins that gives it an air of sophistication, stopping it becoming a juicy fruit bomb. All of this, from one of Spain’s top winemakers, for just £18.95? Grab a Gaba do! 14% alc. Organic & biodynamic farming. Drink now-2028.

Press review:

Decanter: “Telmo Rodríguez’s journey through Spain reviving and recuperating vineyards has led him to work with 43 different varieties. Although established in Rioja, he has also put Málaga back on the map and worked with Garnacha in the Sierra de Gredos, as well as establishing wineries in other regions. This Mencía is fermented and aged in stainless steel, revealing the variety’s purity. Sarah Jane Evans MW: Forward, juicy aromas. Distinctly individual profile, with dense, succulent fruit and a long, ripe finish. Beth Willard: Pretty nose with tomato vine, sour cherry, floral. Very crunchy, green freshness and just the right amount of grippy tannin. Highly drinkable. David Williams: Lovely, pure, graceful and fragrant – full of violet and raspberry juice, racy and succulent with silky tannins and a twist of bergamot and blood orange tang, beetroot earthiness. Almost Pinot-esque. Drink now-2028.” 95 points

“You can’t go wrong with this one, son.” - My Dad, 96 points

In case you didn’t clock the vintage, this is a wine with 12 years under its belt, but it hasn’t been sitting in our cellar gathering dust. We’ve only just shipped it from the bodega, because they don’t release it until it’s in its perfect ‘sweet spot’ for drinking and boy is it just that! I took a bottle to my parents’ house for Sunday dinner and my dad took one sip and ‘cornered’ the bottle in a politely proprietorial way. “You can’t go wrong with this one, son” he said, pouring himself another glass and setting the bottle down beside him. For those of you who haven’t met my dad, that equates to a score of 96 points.

Never mind my dad, what I love about this wine is its sense of calm composure. Having spent 2 years maturing in oak barrels and a further 7 years in bottle, time has smoothed its wrinkled front, and now, instead of something rough around the edges, it pours soft and mellow, a hint of brick to its colour, with the texture of an unassuming gentleman’s claret, yet with the depth conferred by a warmer climate, as this comes from Central Spain. The flavours say damson and cassis, but smudged a little into indistinctness, by time. A hint of forest floor, the mulch of autumn, tobacco and orange peel. You will find your own. Drink it with roast beef, but be prepared to share. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2025.

NB Some of the corks can be a little dry and crumbly. Age isn’t kind to corks or people. Ideally, use a 'butler's thief' corkscrew or, if you are using a regular corkscrew, insert it as far as possible and pull it out gently.

Press review:

JancisRobinson.com: “The tractable intensity and sepia-edged sweetness of this 10-year-old wine draws you in with a slow, silk lasso. Tempranillo to its toes, it's strawberries and leather, tobacco and preserved cherry, black tea lightly steeped, dried flowers, a coffee bean, a touch of mace. Beautiful tissue-fine flavours layered leaf by leaf and then pressed into time and transparent tannins so that they infuse, one into the other. What a rare treat to be able to enjoy a quiet little beauty like this at the peak of its maturity. It seems to be crazy underpriced to me. I'd snap this up in a heartbeat. VGV (TC). Drink now-2026.” 17 points

Customer comments:

“Had the Tempranillo last night – lovely.” - Mr N.B.

“The 'La Pintora’ was so good that I thought I should add a case to my cellar without delay. No trouble with corks either although it’s always fun to have an excuse to bring out the butler’s thief.” - Mr. C. M.

“Saint Jacques is by far the most important wine I make.”- Raúl Pérez.

An astonishing value Mencia from one of Spain’s most important (and hairy) winemakers, Raúl Pérez. It pours a bright, glossy, crimson colour and the appearance seems to translate into flavour, as the palate evokes shiny purple- and blue-skinned fruits (damsons, blueberries, blackcurrants) with succulent acids, black pepper and a hint of cherry blossom. There’s a seamless feel to the polished fruit and you can really taste the quality of the harvest, which is clearly the winemaker’s intention, as there is no oak flavour. It’s vibrant and beautifully supple with fine-grained tannins and a hint of cool graphite, which elevates the fruit. Raul makes some stunning ‘single vineyard’ expressions of Mencia, which have a bit more structure than this blend from old vineyards on different soils, but if you want to get beneath the skin of a grape, a winemaker and a region, then this is your backstage pass. 13% alc. Drink now-2030.

Organic farming

Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “The 2023 Ultreia Saint Jacques has a lifted nose. In the rainy 2023, they selected from the many plots in different lieux-dits of Valtuille, which this year included El Val and El Cepón in Villafranca, mostly from very old vines, with 50% of the grapes purchased from growers. It fermented mostly with full clusters and had a long maceration and matured in used barrels. It has contained ripeness and less than 13% alcohol. All the 2023 reds from the Ultreia range are very clean. Drink now-2030.” 93+ points

Jancis Robinson MW (previous vintage): “Thoroughly satisfying, complex, lifted perfume that already shows some integration even if quite a hit of acidity and a little tannin on the palate. It doesn't have the sweet majesty of Bierzo reds costing many times as much but is clearly an artisanal product from the heavily bearded Pérez. Refreshing and only medium body in terms of impact on the palate. Very Good Value.” 17 points

Customer comments:

“This is an amazing wine.” - Mr. P.D.

”Another case of the Raul Perez Saint Jacques Ultreia if available; it’s brilliant!” - Mr. A.R.

”A hit! Muy, muy bien. Should have had a whole case. Please may I have another 6? - Ms. V. J.

“By the way, the Raul Perez, Ultreia St Jacques was absolutely brilliant for the money.” - Mr M.B.

“Love that Ultreia. I will do another 12!” - Mr. P.N.

”Outstanding!!” - Mr. P. J.

“Very much enjoyed the first bottle last night. Lovely fruit and balance. Slipped down very - too! easily!” - Mr J.G.

”Drank a bottle of the Ultreia St Jacques on weekend. Lovely!” - Mr. D.A.

”This is a damn good wine.” - Mr. D.A.

“I should say I have really enjoyed the Ultreia St Jacques - quite delicious!” - Mr S.C.

”Delicious and superb value.” - Mr. A.T.

What a delightful expression of Spanish Garnacha! It pours a pale ruby colour, like a vermilion watercolour wash, but it’s not wishy-washy. It’s so perfumed and delicate, like a cross between a young Beaujolais and a Tenerife red, yet with plenty of fruit intensity to give it depth too. Cherry dominates the aromas and the flavours, but there are also hints of orange, pink peppercorn, flint and cool graphite (I’m thinking pencil lead). If you like perky and perfumed grape varieties like Pinot Noir, Gamay, Nerello Mascalese, Païs or Trousseau, then do give this a try, especially with a plate of charcuterie. Can be drunk slightly chilled. 13.5% alc. 7 months in oak. Drink now-2028.

Press review:

Decanter (previous vintage): “This bright, juicy Garnacha Tinta (with 5% Garnacha Blanca) is lovely to serve slightly chilled alongside platters of charcuterie at a picnic. Named after El Garbi, the warm African wind that blows through the vineyard in cool Terra Alta, it's packed with vibrant cherry fruit, dusted with spice. Fresh acidity balances the soft tannins for a crisp finish. Drink now-2027.” 91 points

Featured in Decanter’s ‘Top Red Wines to Chill’ (June 2024).

Customer comments:

“I could drink gallons of this! Beautiful!” - Mr W.B.

"I just tried the Garbi. It is superb. Another gem you and Lucia have unearthed!" - Mr A.D-W.

Prepare to swoon. A gloriously aromatic red wine made from the Samso grape, aged for 18 months in American oak barrels, and the combination of glossy fruit and shiny new oak gives the wine such a polished aromatic sheen that you can almost see your face in it (I have a mixed metaphor licence and I’m not afraid to use it).

It’s a heady fruit and oak double-act, displaying sweet ripe cherry and new saddle leather, crimson-fleshed plums and vanilla, tangy pomegranate and sweet balsam notes. If you like full-bodied Ribera del Duero, Rioja or even modern Saint-Emilion, then this will make you very happy and will save you a few bob to boot. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2027.

Press review:

Jancis Robinson MW: “Smells like sweet red bordeaux! Very cleverly made and much more sophisticated than most of the old Samsos I have tasted so far. A successful production. Hints of balsam.” 17 points

It’s great when people tell us that they like Rioja, but we don’t really know what they mean, because there are so many different styles. It’s a bit like someone saying they like Picasso. The most familiar style of red Rioja has flavours of plum, coconut and vanilla (thanks to the widespread use of American oak), but there are myriad other styles from roble and crianza to reserva, gran reserva and the blue period. This example is quite sleek, balsamic and exotic with notes of black cherry, sieved blackberries, cola nut and pudding spices. It eschews the use of wide-grained American oak, which allows more air to penetrate, in favour of French oak and a glossier, more polished style. 13.5% alc. Organic (certified) & biodynamically farmed. Drink now-2030.

“The super bargain of the portfolio has to be the red 2017 Viña Cubillo Tinto Crianza.” - The Wine Advocate

When I was in my early twenties, I was working in southern Spain and went to a local bar after work with a few of my Spanish colleagues. The alpha male among the group ordered a bottle of wine, something called ‘Rioja’, and a terracotta dish containing something fried, which the barman had cut into strips with a pair of scissors. The alpha proffered the dish towards me and I found myself in a circle of expectant Spanish men, staring at me as i picked out a piece to try and bit down. It had the texture of gristle and the flavour of something worryingly ‘close to the tail’. As I pulled a face of horrified revulsion (exaggerated for the purposes of amusing the group), I was told that it was pig’s ear and they all fell about laughing. Realising that the crunchy cartilage wasn’t going to disappear through chewing alone, but only break into infinitely smaller fractal elements, I grabbed a glass of the ‘Rioja’ and used it as a sort of mouth-flush. As the little shards of porcine lughole went down the hatch, I did stop to notice that the ‘Rioja’ had a faint note of plum and coconut, which I found rather pleasant.

Life coaches will tell you that you can always turn a negative experience into a positive one and that evening in that bar in Murcia has stuck with me, not so much because of the local ‘delicacy’ (have you ever noticed that local delicacies are rarely ‘delicate’?), but remembering the delicious flavour of that Rioja with its mellow, woodsy, soft-bellied fruit. I have loved Rioja ever since and if I had to pick one that represented everything I love about it, it would be the 'Vina Cubillo' from Bodegas R. Lopez de Heredia. Not only does it taste steadfastly ‘classic’, a fine-boned, juicy example of traditional Rioja, but it’s incredible value too. And who knows, it may have been the same wine I drank, all those years ago, in the first flush of youth. Enjoy it with oreja a la plancha. 13.5% alc. Drink now-2032.

Press reviews:

Tim Atkin MW: “Cubillo is always sold as a Crianza, partly because it's always been done that way, but has nothing whatsoever to do with the kind of high-volume wines you find on supermarket shelves. Pairing Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha and 5% each of Graciano and Mazuelo, all from the 80-year-old Cubillas vineyard, this is sweet and savoury, with lots of racy cranberry acidity and sinewy tannins.” 94 points

The Wine Advocate: “The super bargain of the portfolio has to be the red 2017 Viña Cubillo Tinto Crianza, which this year shows more development and faster aging, with more tertiary notes than the other reds from 2013 and 2014 that I tasted next to it. It has notes of damp earth, mushrooms, truffles and forest floor, dry leaves and decayed flowers and herbs. It has a polished palate and is medium-bodied, with mostly resolved tannins, and it feels a little lighter. But it's still worth it. It was produced with a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha and 5% each Graciano and Mazuelo from vines averaging 53 years of age. It fermented in their old oak vats and matured in used American oak barrels for three+ years. Drink now-2036.” 93 points

This is a dark wine, real dark. Feral tear off your skin to the bone dark. Dirty rip out the whole of your soul dark. I'll hate myself for days dark. Sitting all alone and listening to Nick Cave dark. It pours the colour of ink, and coats the glass in blackcurrant juice and smells like black cherries on a night out in Gotham City, but then it hits your senses and it’s joyful. It’s called ‘Sol de 19’ and it’s what the sun gave the grower in 2019. This is what my dad would call a “proper wine”. Big, bold and unapologetically glamorous. 14.5% alc. Unfiltered. 50% Graciano and 50% Tempranillo, Drink now-2028.

Organic. (certified). Biodynamic (certified).

Vegan-friendly.

If you are interested in this Canary Islands wine, it’s probably because you have the spirit of adventure coursing through your veins and were curious to know more and had to do some research to find it. After all, it’s hardly ‘click bait’ is it?! So, thank you for tracking it down of your own accord. I’m assuming you are already favourably pre-disposed towards these volcanic Tenerife wines, so we’re going to do away with all the caveats and disclaimers about high acidity and smoky minerals and light alcohol, because those are really for people who have been weaned on Chilean Merlot. This is a haunting expression of Listan Negro, dramatically aromatic with the scent of wet raspberries, glossy blackcurrants and the wispy smoke of cooled lava. It’s light and refreshing and can be drunk slightly chilled. 12.5% alc. Organic & biodynamic (non-certified). Drink now-2026.

Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “This year they merged the 7 Fuentes and 7 Fuentes El Lance into a single cuvée of Listán Negro and 5% Castellana Negra, so it has grapes from more vineyards, 30 different ones. It fermented with 20% full clusters in concrete with indigenous yeasts and matured for 11 months, 50% in concrete and 50% in used 500-litre oak barrels; then it was blended and kept in stainless steel for a further eight months. It has 12.5% alcohol and good acidity and freshness. This is quite approachable and less reductive and at the same time fresher. They have been working to increase the pH of the soil to get less reduction in the wines; each year as the soils are healthier, there is less reduction in the wines. Drink now-2029.” 93+ points

JancisRobinson.com: “Smudgy bricky red. Light note of smoky/peppery reduction but, says winemaker/owner Jonatan García Marques, this flavour is less prominent each year as he adds lime to the soil to reduce the stress on the vines. Beautifully fragrant with non-sweet red fruit. Tangy with a touch of something that reminds me of clementine skin. Bone dry, chalky-dry but so vibrant and full of energy. Some leafy notes from higher-yield parcels but very little whole bunch in this vintage. Opens up to a subtle floral note as the smokiness blows off. Mouth-wateringly fresh and juicy with fine, dry texture and that smoky note back on the finish. The tannins are deceptively firm, wrapped around the smoky wild fruit. (JH). Drink now-2030.” 16.5 points

This is a fabulous, new wave Spanish red, despite the old-school label. It's all there in the heady aromas of wild cherry, blood orange and violets - in other words, classic Mencia - which interlace seamlessly with the racy, high acid palate to create a wonderfully vibrant wine. There's an elegance and a sense of cold-stone minerality, attributable to the vines, which grow on vertiginous, granite-based, terraced vineyards, which tumble down to the River Sil below, so steeply that, from the other side of the river, they look like venetian blinds. Drink it with lamb chops, pork belly, roast duck or anything that needs a red with a little acidity. It comes from a single-vineyard plot of 70-year-old vines, fermented with whole clusters and aged in large oak barrels. 13% alc. Drink now-2030.


Press review:

Vinous: "Saturated bright-hued garnet. Spice- and earth-tinged cherry and black raspberry aromas pick up suave floral and succulent herb nuances with air. Concentrated red and dark fruit preserve and liquorice flavours are energised by smoky mineral and exotic spice notes. Blends depth and energy with a sure hand and finishes very long, smoky and gently chewy with dusty tannins adding final grip. Drink now-2030." 93 points

Jancis Robinson MW: "A new collaborative project between Bierzo’s Raúl Pérez and Rias Baixas’ Rodrigo Méndez (Forjas des Salnés). From the land of viticultura heroica, as advertised on the front label. Blackish purple. Very edgy nose, even though this has come straight from the cellar. Do be careful to keep this wine fairly cool. Sweet start and very juicy and smooth with a minerally polish – a bit like a polished stone in texture somehow. Definitely to be served cool. Tastes racy and like a pumice stone on the palate. Fun, and with a determinedly period label – clever. Long and fresh. What a nightmare to be given this blind. Drink now-2026." 16.5 points

The Wine Advocate (previous vintage): "What differentiates the 2016 A Boca do Demo from the other reds from Castro Candaz is the stony character of the palate, with the strict austerity of the granite and some chalk, finishing dry and long. It's elegant and perfumed, with violets, red berries and blood orange peel notes, a super-mineral personality and very fine tannins. Simply superb." 95+ points

A featherweight red wine from Catalonia with a pale colour and imperceptible tannins, made from the local Trepat grape and showing high-toned aromas from the whole bunch fermentation and flavours of strawberry nectar, pumice stone and cold embers. Quirky and delicious! 12% alc. Drink now-2025.

Organic/ biodynamic

The Wine Advocate: "My favorite red is usually the Vijariego Negro, the grape known as Sumoll in Cataluña that was cultivated in Jerez, from where it probably travelled to the Canary Islands. The 2019 Ignios Orígenes Vijariego Negro comes from the same vineyard that has been used since 2013, a vineyard planted in 2006 on sandy soils. 2019 was a challenging year here, with lots of mildew and low yields. It fermented destemmed in stainless steel and matured in used and neutral 500-liter oak barrels with lees. It's only 12% alcohol and has a low pH (3.27) with notable acidity. It has a spectacular nose with notes of flowers and herbs intermixed with ground basalt and wet pumice stone. It's very tasty and has very fine, slightly earthy tannins that make it beautifully textured. Drink now-2028." 94+ points

Organic & biodynamically farmed.

“I love the 2021 El Puño Garnacha.” - The Wine Advocate, 95 points

As far as Spanish wine regions go, Calatayud is something of a backwater, high up in the mountainous province of Zaragoza, so we were slightly taken aback on meeting the winemaker to hear his thick Scottish accent. Norel Robertson MW (one of only four Masters of Wine currently living and working in Spain) is a bit of a trailblazer, a crazy pioneer, who goes by the name of 'El Escoces Volante' ('The Flying Scotsman') and although he has made wine in Murcia, Andalucia and Galicia, he has established a real name for himself in Calatayud, where he makes high altitude wines from Rhone varieties and this Garnacha was one of the best of some great wines that we tasted with him. Glamorous aromas of red velvet cake, damson jam and sweet spices are lifted by notes of violet and pomegranate, while the palate is silky, serious and complex, with pure plum fruit balanced by ripe, rounded tannins, orange acidity and a long perfumed fade. 14.5% alc. Drink now-2032.

Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “I love the 2021 El Puño Garnacha, which was produced in a similar way as the 2020, only with a slightly higher percentage of wine in barrel (50% versus 40%), but the oak goes unnoticeable. It has notes of blood orange and a citric touch of freshness that makes it very showy, aromatic and attractive. This is a serious, complex, elegant and austere Garnacha. Drink now-2030.” 95 points

Winemaking

The Garnacha vines are 70-100 years old, cultivated at 1,100 metres altitude in slate and quartzite soils. Found amongst mountain herbs, almond and olive trees - the bush vines are dry-grown at this extreme altitude, where annual rainfall is very low (200-300mm). All the fruit is rigorously selected and, as such, these old vines yield less than 1.5kg of fruit per vine. Following a selection of the bunches the grapes are crushed into tanks, where they are held at 8°C to cold soak for up to 10 days. The temperature is then allowed to rise to bring on wild fermentation, and the tanks are plunged for gentle extraction. A couple of tanks were allowed an extended maceration to add weight and complexity to the blend. 40% of the wine was then aged in old, used, French oak barrels (500-650 litre) with low to medium toast. The component parts were blended, with some lees stirring, and bottled with a light filtration and no fining.

This was our favourite red wine at Vinateros, the ‘new wave’ Spanish trade tasting that takes place in London every 2 years. It’s made from the Baboso Negro grape grown on the western side of Tenerife in the trips-off-the-tongue appellation of Ycoden-Daute-Isora. As you would expect, it has a subtle, volcanic smokiness to it, as well as a peppery character, but there’s so much more to it than spice and mineral accents. It’s taut, nervy and focused on the palate, offering zesty red berry and violet flavours, but the fruit is succulent and sweet and fills the mouth with floral cherry and pomegranate and a little nutty oak, finishing on a tender note that evokes some of the best wines from Beaujolais or the Jura. Exceptional!

Technical data: Baboso Negro from a single vineyard called La Vizacondesa. 20-year-old ungrafted vines planted on clay-loamy soils. 30% of the grapes are whole-bunch fermented without crushing. Cold maceration for 48 hours followed by stainless-steel fermentation.. After pressing, the wine is racked into used 600-litre French oak casks. Barrel maturation lasts 12 months and the wine is not stabilised or filtered. Organic farming.

Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “As with the rest of the wines, I tasted two vintages of this red, so I also sampled the 2017 Ignios Orígenes Baboso Negro, which matured in a 1,500-litre oak foudre (and one barrique), so the rate at which the wine takes oxygen during the élevage was very different from the 2016. This felt much younger, and it had a creamy twist that was probably added by the new oak in which it was aged. It has plenty of fine-grained tannins that might require a little more time in bottle. Drink now-2024.” 93 points

“The 2012 is a beautiful old-school Rioja.” - Vinous, 95 points

“A true classic.” - Decanter, 95 points

A gloriously distinguished, old-school Rioja aged for 6 years in oak barrels, which achieves the seemingly impossible paradox of tasting old and young at the same time. Neither age before beauty nor beauty before age. They walk through the door together. One of the world’s iconic wine treasures. 13% alc, Drink now-2036.

The Wine Advocate: “The 2012 Viña Tondonia Reserva comes from a very dry year, with 25% less rain than the average (at the time), resulting in lower yields of very healthy grapes that delivered wines with nice balance between alcohol and polyphenols, making it very apt for the aging in barrel. It had a slightly longer élevage in barrel, six years. The wine is aromatic with a developed profile, spicy and tertiary (forest floor, a touch of brick dust and iodine), complex and nuanced. The palate is full and round, with polished tannins and a long, dry finish. Drink now-2035.” 95 points

Vinous: “The 2012 Viña Tondonia is a blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano, cultivated on the meander of the Ebro River in Rioja Alta. This garnet wine reveals aromas of ash and plum marmalade, with a faintly herbal core and hints of oaky cedar. Dry and lean, the fairly chalky texture lingers long, concluding with a compact, flavourful and lasting finish. The 2012 is a beautiful old-school Rioja. Drink now-2035.” 95 points

Decanter: “After six years in barrel (produced at López de Heredia's own cooperage) and three in bottle prior to release this is all you can expect from a classical Viña Tondonia with its focused intensity and muscular yet super elegant tannins. Assertive but also super silky, with juicy fruit gliding through the palate while being pleasantly pulled back by an energetic, smoky verve. Broody while at the same time mature - another accomplished vintage of a true classic. Drink now-2040.” 94 points

The Wine Advocate: “The eponymous and flagship red 2023 4 Kilos kept the harmonious, elegant and fresh profile that is a constant even in more challenging years. Half of the volume fermented in 2,500-litre oak vats and the other half in stainless steel, then the wine matured in 225- and 600-litre Allier oak barrels for one year. This has a more austere and serious nose than the Motor América/Motor Callet or the Grimalt/Caballero, without that honeyed note; it's more about flowers, plants and wild berries with a spicy twist. It has a powerful palate, with abundant, fine-grained tannins; it's nicely built and has a long, dry finish. It has contained ripeness and only 12% alcohol. This feels like a long-distance runner, closer to 2021 or 2020 than to 2022. Drink now-2036.” 97 points

There are very few wines that have such a strong sense of place as volcanic wines and this one takes you right to the rim of the crater. It’s there in the aromas of crushed basalt and whetstone amidst sweet red cherry, strawberry, orange peel and something glossy that reminds me of an old-vine Morgon from one of the new-wave Beaujolais producers. Only a few bottles have made their way to the UK and we suggest that adventurous wine drinkers snap them up asap.

This is a single-vineyard cuvée made from Negramoll on the slopes (‘Ladera’ means slope) of the San Antonio volcano in the south. It has a slightly deeper colour than Vicki’s other reds, which tend to be notably pale. It fermented with full clusters and matured in oa single 600-litre oak barrel. The grapes see a lot of sun, because of the exposition, but somehow the wine has a freshness that sings in this vintage (the first release since 2018, mainly due to drought). 13.5% alc. Drink now-2034. Organic farming.

Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “A red that was only produced in 2018 and the rest of the years went to the cuvée of Negramoll comes back as the 2022 Ladera. It's from the slopes (hence the name) of the Volcán San Antonio in the south. It has a deeper color than most of the other reds from the year. It fermented with full clusters and matured in a 600-liter oak barrel. It has a very spicy nose with pungent notes of cloves. The grapes get a lot of sun, because of the exposition on lapilli volcanic ash soils, but somehow the wine has an herbal side that suggests freshness. Drink now-2028.” 94 points

Quite a deep colour, certainly by Envinate’s standards. It looks healthy, like glossy crimson ink. Raise it your nose and then wow! Gorgeously sweet-scented black fruits amid layers of intricacy. Not so much spices as the bowl that spices had been kept in. Fleeting notes of earthy, dusty minerals and tree bark. Seamless and elegant on the palate. A mysterious and beguiling seducer. 13% alc. Only 2,000 bottles produced. Drink now-2029.

Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “The intoxicating 2022 Lousas Parcela Seoane comes from a specific plot in the village of Doade, old vines planted in the 1930s on gneiss and quartz. It has the expressive nose of the zone - serious and mineral - but it's perfumed too. It has the forward and extroverted character of 2022 and is a little riper and rounder, with a note of blood orange and the faint volatility that lifts up the nose. There's a lot of energy here. Drink now-2034.” 96 points

“OMG – what a discovery!” - Ferran Centelles, former wine director at El Bulli, writing for JancisRobinson.com

“Another fabulous Valdeorras red from this producer!” - Tim Atkin MW

Mainly Mencía and Garnacha Tintorera grapes with smaller quantities of other local varieties, including Merenzao, Sousón, and Brancellao. The nose has terrific depth, featuring ripe blackberries, morello cherries and black plum, but there are also delicate top notes of violet, apricot and mint, reflecting the cooler character of the 2021 vintage. The year that the wine spent in barrel brings a little smoky spice without overpowering the mineral accents imparted by the slate soil. A fabulous taste of modern Spanish winemaking! 13% alc. Drink now-2035.

Press reviews:

JancisRobinson.com (Ferran Centelles): “OMG – what a discovery upon opening this bottle! This wine is unique, simply outstanding for its price, easily deserving not only the retail price in Spain but at least twice as much. Black-fruit profile with black cherry, blackcurrant and pomegranate, yet delivered with exquisite delicacy. Fabulous fine-grained tannins, light yet deep, extremely sapid with remarkable freshness and precision. Compared with other wines from the estate, this shows a slightly darker fruit character, while retaining incredible drinkability. Subtle smoky and ashy touches appear on the back palate, perfectly integrated. A deeply moving wine that transports you to the wild, dramatic landscape of Valdeorras. Congratulations and thank you for enlightening my palate! I can only hope that warmer vintages like 2022 or 2024 will retain the same stunning quality shown in this 2021. Drink now-2035.” 18 points

Tim Atkin MW: “Another fabulous Valdeorras red from this producer! The wine is a reflection of the cooler vintage with impressive acidity and minty freshness. The nose is pure, direct and red fruited, offering a hint of the slatey origins of the vineyard. Rose petals and strawberries add some delicate, pretty aromas to an essentially profound and layered wine.” 94 points

Decanter (previous vintage): “Resplendent floral, oaky, toasty, plummy and dark cherry nose. Palate is full bodied and concentrated, the tannins fine and silky. Holds a long, compelling note through the finish. Outstanding example of its style.” 95 points

“Their finest effort to date.” -The Wine Advocate, 100 points

This comes from one of the most dramatic vineyards in Tenerife, clinging to a cliff face on the north-east corner of the island. The wine itself is quite pale, like rosehip cordial. So fresh, so pure, so elegant, so Tenerife! The fruit is beautifully pared down, as if reduced to its bare essence. Thinly sliced strawberries, watermelon, rose petals and cold embers. Elegance… from a volcano!

A blend of Listán Negro, Baboso Negro, Negramoll, Vijariego, and 10% of white varieties such as Malvasía. Red basalt soils of volcanic origin. Spontaneous alcoholic fermentation with ambient yeasts in open vats using 100% of the stems. Daily punching down, and malolactic conversion in neutral French oak barrels of 500 litres. Aged in the same barrels for 11 months on its lees, without any racking. Simple really. Only 1,800 bottles produced. Organic farming. 12% alc. Vegan-friendly. Drink now-2030.

Press review:

The Wine Advocate: “2021 was a cooler year, like 2016 and 2018, and they did longer macerations. The grapes were healthy, they got a little higher yield and it was all easy. The 2021 Táganan Parcela Margalagua is young and long, very balanced, complex and elegant, peppery, spicy and floral, with iron-like notes, raw meat and a salty twist on the finish. The wine is long and expansive. This was their finest effort to date, with a superb 2023 produced later at a similar level. Drink now-2034.” 100 points

EXTREMELY LIMITED. MAXIMUM 3 BOTTLES PER CUSTOMER. NOT AVAILABLE ON ITS OWN, MUST BE PART OF AN ORDER THAT MEETS OUR MINIMUM REQUIREMENT OF 6 BOTTLES. UK MAINLAND ONLY.

“A Mediterranean grand cru?”- The Wine Advocate, 96 points

“A truly otherworldly expression of Sumoll.” - Vinous, 96 points

“Now, this is a bit special. Wow, I’m a bit smitten by how good this is!” - Tim Atkin, 96 points

There’s a noticeable trend among consumers towards lighter red wines these days, so we often find ourselves steering people towards the usual suspects, Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo and Grenache, but, if we are feeling adventurous, we might throw in Nerello Mascalese and Listan Prieto. Hapilly, we can now add Sumoll to that list, a Catalan grape variety, also known as Vijariego Negra when grown in the Canary Islands, which produces light- to medium-bodied reds wines and, in this iteration, has produced a wine of supreme delicacy and aromatic complexity, with oxymoronically subtle intensity behind its fine-boned frame. 12.5% alc. Drink now-2036.

Press reviews:

The Wine Advocate: “They found a very old vineyard planted with Sumoll in the 1960s outside the limits of Penedès that they started working in 2022 and shared with Roc Gramona to produce one wine each from the same vines. Theirs is the 2022 La Peça Coll del Guix, a paler, more delicate and elegant expression of the grape from blue marl soils. Sumoll seems to be a very elastic variety, a Mediterranean grape that expresses the place in different ways; it likes and needs heat but transmits freshness. Here, it's closer to a Ploussard from Jura than Burgundy or Barolo. There is an herbal twist here, bright fruit and flowers, and it shows completely different from the others, with more finesse and elegance, very fine tannins, really fine-boned, serious and subtle. The full clusters were foot trodden and fermented in concrete vats, then the wine matured in 500-litre barrels and concrete eggs for six months. It's super balanced and has the elements to develop in bottle. A Mediterranean grand cru? Drink now-2037.” 96 points

Vinous: “The 2022 La Peça Coll del Guix is 100% Sumoll from gypsum soils in Penedes. It offers delicate clarity of red fruit, cherry and pomegranate, with very fine, precise tannins and a refreshing, lingering finish marked by red fruit. A truly otherworldly expression of Sumoll. Drink now-2042.” 96 points

Tim Atkin MW: “Now, this is a bit special. Old vine Sumoll from blue marl, outside of DO Penedès and wow. Delicate, bright red fruits, sappy herbs, touches of wild flowers and all framed by this amazing sense of chalky minerality. I’m a bit smitten by how good this is – it’s a new ceiling for Sumoll! 2026-2034.” 96 points